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New Matterhorn route established by Cazzanelli, Farina, Perruquet, Stradelli
08/02/2024 - Alpinism
New Matterhorn route established by Cazzanelli, Farina, Perruquet, Stradelli
On 06/02/2024 Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Marco Farina and Stefano Stradelli established a new route on the South Face of the Matterhorn (4,478m).
Léo Billon & Benjamin Védrines complete Drus-Droites-Jorasses 3 day winter trilogy
01/02/2024 - Alpinism
Léo Billon & Benjamin Védrines complete Drus-Droites-Jorasses 3 day winter trilogy
French mountaineers Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines have completed an exceptional trilogy, climbing the north faces of the Drus, Les Droites and the Grandes Jorasses in just three days and in the middle of winter. The enchainment was described as 'unimaginable' until only recently.
New mixed climb in Valle Argentera (Valle di Susa), Italy
29/01/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb in Valle Argentera (Valle di Susa), Italy
On 01/20/2024 Fabrizio Cuniberti, Diego Margiotta and Lucio Rinetti amde the first ascent of 'Ecofly' in Valle Argentera (Val Susa, Piedmont, Italy). Located to the left of 'Coboldo Caustico', the new mixed climb is dedicated to the mountaineer and paraglider Marco Diliberto who died in a mountaineering accident in September...
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
12/01/2024 - Alpinism
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
Enrico Lovato reports about the first ascent of 'Il Cigno Nero' (320m, 5+, M7, 40°) established on the north-east face of Cima Falkner in the Brenta Dolomites with Federico Asciolla on 5 January 2024.
Alex Megos interview after Siurana Sleeping Lion second ascent
06/01/2024 - Interviews
Alex Megos interview after Siurana Sleeping Lion second ascent
Interview with German climber Alexander Megos who on 4 January 2024 made the first repeat of Sleeping Lion at Siurana in Spain. Established by Chris Sharma in March 2023 and originally graded 9b+, Megos believes the route warrants 9b.
Luca Bana sends Super Crackinette (9a+) at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France
05/01/2024 - Climbing
Luca Bana sends Super Crackinette (9a+) at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France
On 01/01/2024 Italian climber Luca Bana redpointed his second 9a+, 'Super Crackinette' at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France.
Seb Berthe bags Beyond (9a+) at Pic Saint Loup in France
04/01/2024 - Climbing
Seb Berthe bags Beyond (9a+) at Pic Saint Loup in France
Belgium's Sébastien Berthe has climbed his third 9a+, Beyond at Pic Saint Loup in France.
Two new mixed climbs on Mëisules dala Biesces (Sella, Dolomites)
01/01/2024 - Alpinism
Two new mixed climbs on Mëisules dala Biesces (Sella, Dolomites)
In December 2023 on Mëisules dala Biesces (Sella Group, Dolomites) Rolando Varesco made the first ascents of the mixed climb 'Alpinewelten' with Martin Sölva and 'Dünnes Wasser' with Emanuele Andreozzi.
Ice Climbing Festival at Eispark Osttirol, Austria
30/12/2023 - Events
Ice Climbing Festival at Eispark Osttirol, Austria
From 11 - 14 January 2024 the Ice Park Osttirol will host its 7th Ice Climbing Festival. Open to everyone and located close to the Matreier Tauernhaus in East Tirol, Austria, the meeting will also host the Austrian State Championship.
Spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta opposite Marmolada (Dolomites)
22/12/2023 - Alpinism
Spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta opposite Marmolada (Dolomites)
Emanuele Andreozzi and Vaida Vaivadaite have established 'First Time', a spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta directly opposite the south face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites, Italy.
Alex Megos' Frankenjura climbing marathon
21/12/2023 - Climbing
Alex Megos' Frankenjura climbing marathon
On 06/10/2023 German climber Alexander Megos climbed 10 routes from 8b to 8c in 10 hours in the Frankenjura, Germany. To add to the challenge, he used an e-bike to reach each route.
New ice climb added to Sorapiss (Dolomites) by Mirco Grasso, Francesco Rigon
20/12/2023 - Alpinism
New ice climb added to Sorapiss (Dolomites) by Mirco Grasso, Francesco Rigon
Italian mountain guide Francesco Rigon reports about the first ascent of ice climb 'Solo per un sorriso' (WI 5+ 170m), established with Mirco Grasso on Croda di Cacciagrande in the Sorapiss Group (Dolomites) on 19/12/2023.
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
15/12/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
After the first ascent in February 2023, British climber James Pearson has now proposed the grade E12 for Bon Voyage at Annot in France. Currently there is no other trad route of this grade. In this great introspective piece the 30-year-old British climber talks about the path that led him...
Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
13/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 2-3 November 2023, Czech mountaineers Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of 'Just one solution!'(ED WI4+, M5, 1200m) up the West Face of Cholatse (6440m) in Nepal. Hák reports about the route dedicated to the memory of Jan Ros.
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
12/12/2023 - Alpinism
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
From 4 to 7 October 2023 Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of 'Oltre il Diau' on the southwest face of Antelao (Dolomites). Walpoth reports.
Michaela Kiersch's marvellous Margalef month
08/12/2023 - Climbing
Michaela Kiersch's marvellous Margalef month
American climber Michaela Kiersch has spent a month in Margalef, Spain, during which she has amassed an impressive list of climbs including 'Era Vella' (9a), 'Victimes del futur' (9a) and 'Coma sant pere' (8c+).