3040 News found

18/07/2024 - Alpinism
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have made the first ascent of 'Puro Floro' on the SE Face of Nevado Copa (6190) in Peru.

17/07/2024 - Alpinism
New climb added to Piz Badile by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo On 29 June 2024 the Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo made the first ascent of 'Æterna nix' (VIII, 200m) on the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

11/07/2024 - Alpinism
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt David Göttler has abandoned his ambitious expedition on Nanga Parbat for this year, due to unfavourable conditions during his final summit attempt. The German alpinist had hoped to climb the Rupal Face alpine style, initially with Mike Arnold, then with Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein.

10/07/2024 - Climbing
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to 6c, and a fundraiser has been launched to complete the...

05/07/2024 - Climbing
Ferro, the cool summer crag in Val del Ferro (Val di Mello, Italy) Ferro is an atypical crag, a long way from the valley floor, immersed in unique alpine environment, where climbing is only a small part of the equation. Simone Pedeferri introduces the crag Ferro crag in Val del Ferro (Val di Mello, Val Masino, Italy), developed with Davide Spini, Max Piazza,...

02/07/2024 - Alpinism
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.

21/06/2024 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz frees Persefone Ext (D15) in Italy's Gran Borna cave On 5 June 2024 the Italian-Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz made the first ascent of 'Persefone Extension', a new extreme drytooling climb in the Gran Borna cave at La Thuile in Italy. 54 meters long and graded D15, the route was established DTS style and is dedicated to his late friend...

12/06/2024 - Climbing
Electric Avenue on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques In August 2022 the Bulgarian climbers Emiliyan Kolevski and Victor Varoshkin made the first ascent of 'Electric Avenue' on Grand Gendarme on the Arête des Cosmiques on Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc, France. This is only the third route up the famous granite monolith after 'Digital Crack' and 'Arête Cosmiques',...

11/06/2024 - Climbing
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse Vangelis Galanis has made a rope solo first ascent of a new multipitch rock climb on Kapelo Peak in Meteora, Greece. The route is dedicated to Dietrich Hasse, the German climber who pioneered rock climbing in the conglomerate area in the late 1970's. Galanis reports.

03/06/2024 - Alpinism
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy On 01/05/2024 Victor Varoshkin, a mountain guide from Bulgaria, became the first person to repeat 'Parallel World' D16 in pure DTS style. The dry tooling climb is located at crag Tomorrow's World below Marmolada in the Italian Dolomites and was established in December 2018 by Polish mountaineer Dariusz Sokołowski.

31/05/2024 - Climbing
Uncut: watch Stefano Ghisolfi make first ascent of Excalibur (9b+) The uncut climbing video of Stefano Ghisolfi making the first ascent of 'Excalibur' (9b+) close to Arco, Italy. Graded 9b+, this checks in as one of the hardest sport climbs in the world

30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.

29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...

24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).

23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.

22/05/2024 - Climbing
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.
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