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Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of bolts.
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner
30/08/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner
British rock climber James Pearson has repeated The Parthian Shot E10 6c at Burbage South, UK, without the side-runner in the crack on the right. The Brit, no newcomer to hard and dangerous trad ascents, stated after his repeat 'This one means a lot.'
Laura Rogora onsights 8c at Cicera in Spain
29/08/2023 - Climbing
Laura Rogora onsights 8c at Cicera in Spain
Italian climber Laura Rogora has onsighted her first 8c, 'Ajo crude' at Cicera in Spain. She is only the third woman to succeed in this feat, after Janja Garnbret (2021) and Chaehyun Seo (2022).
Ainhize Belar Barrutia repeats world's first 8c, Wolfgang Güllich's Wallstreet in Frankenjura
27/08/2023 - Climbing
Ainhize Belar Barrutia repeats world's first 8c, Wolfgang Güllich's Wallstreet in Frankenjura
Spanish climber Ainhize Belar Barrutia has repeated Wallstreet, the world's first 8c established in 1987 by Wolfgang Güllich and located on Krottenseer Turm in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Pete Whittaker frees Eigerdosis, 8c trad crack at Jøssingfjord in Norway
25/08/2023 - Climbing
Pete Whittaker frees Eigerdosis, 8c trad crack at Jøssingfjord in Norway
British rock climber Pete Whittaker has made the first free ascent of the second pitch of 'Eigerdosis' on the Profilveggen / Profile wall at Jøssingfjord in Norway. The previous aid climb is now a trad crack that checks in at 8c.
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
24/08/2023 - Alpinism
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
The report and route topo of 'Utúlie‘n Aurë' (8-/RS3/I), the new multi-pitch first ascended in mid-July on the West Face of Coston d'Averau (Nuvolau, Dolomites) by Czech mountaineers Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka and Anna Coubalová.
Paul Pritchard makes first ascent of 'Jean', first trad lead in 25 years
22/08/2023 - Interviews
Paul Pritchard makes first ascent of 'Jean', first trad lead in 25 years
Interview with British rock climber Paul Pritchard who has made the first ascent of the trad climb 'Jean' in Tasmania. This is Pritchard's first trad lead in 25 years, after his near-fatal fall on the Totem Pole in 1998, and his first new route since 1997.
Watch Silvan Schüpbach complete his Wenden Climbing Marathon
20/08/2023 - Alpinism
Watch Silvan Schüpbach complete his Wenden Climbing Marathon
The video of Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach who on 31/07/2022 with Carlos Molina from Argentina climbed 7 routes in 24 hours on the Wendenstöcke in Switzerland.
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
19/08/2023 - Alpinism
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
Remembering Ermanno Salvaterra, the great Italian mountaineer of the Brenta Dolomites and Patagonia, who perished yesterday while climbing on Campanile Alto di Brenta.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
18/08/2023 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
At Rhoscolyn on the island of Anglesey in North Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated the E9 trad climb 'Olwen' while her husband James Pearson has repeated the E10 'Prisoners of the sun'.
Seb Bouin makes flash first ascent of 8c+ 'Baise moi'
11/08/2023 - Climbing
Seb Bouin makes flash first ascent of 8c+ 'Baise moi'
Sébastien Bouin has made the first ascent of 'Baise moi' at the crag Saint Auban in the Verdon Gorge, France. The Frenchman climbed the route flash style and has suggested the grade 8c+.
Via Lisa added to Torre d'Ambiez in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra
07/08/2023 - Alpinism
Via Lisa added to Torre d'Ambiez in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra
The report by Italian mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra who on 10 September 2022 made the first ascent of Via Lisa on the east face of Torre d'Ambiez above Val d'Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Lead World Championships 2023: Semifinals and Finals today in Bern
06/08/2023 - Competitions
Lead World Championships 2023: Semifinals and Finals today in Bern
The Lead World Championship 2023 is taking place in Bern today with the Male and Female Semifinals at 10.00 and the Finals at 18.30
Sport Climbing World Championships 2023 begin in Bern today
01/08/2023 - Competitions
Sport Climbing World Championships 2023 begin in Bern today
The 2023 Sport Climbing World Championships begin today in Bern, Switzerland. The event will award world titles in Boulder, Lead, Speed and Paraclimbing, also distribute the first batch of 10 Olympic quota places for the Olympic Games Paris 2024.
New climb on Roi du Siam in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
31/07/2023 - Alpinism
New climb on Roi du Siam in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
On the gendarme Roi du Siam (3632m) in the Mont Blanc massif the Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Gianluca Marra have established the multi-pitch climb 'Calcul du Roi'. Bruni reports.
Mathew Wright frees bold Magical Thinking E10 at Pavey Ark, UK
24/07/2023 - Climbing
Mathew Wright frees bold Magical Thinking E10 at Pavey Ark, UK
Mat Wright has made the first ascent of the bold trad climb 'Magical Thinking' E10 7a at Pavey Ark, England.

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