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K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
11/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
The storms that hit K2 last week have wrecked Camp 2, destroying all equipment belonging to the expedition led by Nirmal Purja. The 37-year-old Nepalese mountaineer has already stated he will not give up and simply postpone his attempt to climb the last remaining eight-thousander that has never been climbed...
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald
24/12/2020 - Book-press
Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald
Winter 8000: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains in the Coldest Season by award-winning author Bernadette McDonald. The best-selling mountaineering book, the most complete analysis of winter climbing in the Himalayas, finalist of all the most important international mountain literature awards.
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, complete movie online
21/12/2020 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, complete movie online
Watch the first episode of Petzl Legend Tour Italia, a journey to Finale Ligure exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing in the 1980's
The Ghosts from Above, Everest through the eyes of Renan Ozturk
04/12/2020 - Alpinism
The Ghosts from Above, Everest through the eyes of Renan Ozturk
In The Ghosts Above, American alpinist and filmmaker Renan Ozturk joins an expedition to Everest following in the footsteps of Andrew Irvine and George Mallory, the British climbers who perished on the mountain on June 8, 1924.
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
02/12/2020 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of a difficult crack called Grenzenlos in Valle Orco, Italy. Protected with a pecker, it is a mix between a trad climb and a highball.
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
23/11/2020 - Climbing
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
Akira, the famous sport climb established by Fred Rouhling in 1995, has finally been repeated for the first time by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez. According to the two young Frenchmen the route is a difficult 9a, and not 9b as suggested by Rouhling 25 years ago.
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
Belgian climber Seb Berthe reports about his first 9a+ redpoint, Super-Crackinette at Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux in France. Success came about after a relentless summer on some of the hardest multi-pitch climbs across the Alps.
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
09/10/2020 - Alpinism
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
Simon Richardson reports about two new routes climbed on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in the Mont Blanc massif with Michael Rinn, the ephemeral mixed route Dinosaur Gully and the traditional multi-pitch rock climb Autumn Vibes.
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
06/10/2020 - Climbing
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
Turkish rock climber Zorbey Aktuyun has made the first ascent of the 8a trad climb Kült at Pınarbaşı Canyon in the Aladağlar massif. Furthermore, on the striking Parmakkaya obelisk he has made a rope solo ascent of the classic Orient climb, established by Helmut Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder.
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
24/09/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created Cani Morti Plus. Graded 8c, this is now one of...
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.
Laura Rogora climbs 9a in a day, La Prophétie des Grenouilles at Rocher des Brumes
25/08/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora climbs 9a in a day, La Prophétie des Grenouilles at Rocher des Brumes
At Rocher des Brumes in France, Italian climber Laura Rogora has sent a 9a sport climb in just one day, La Prophétie des Grenouilles.
Kai Lightner launches Climbing for Change
10/08/2020 - Climbing
Kai Lightner launches Climbing for Change
American rock climber Kai Lightner has launched Climbing for Change, a non-profit organisation that aims to readdress racial inequality in rock climbing and make the outdoor industry.
Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto
01/08/2020 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto
Mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have enchained the Ratti-Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peutèrey, the Gervasutti - Boccalatte route on Picco Gugliermina and the Central Pillar of Frêney, first climbed in 1961 by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Duglosz, Don Whillans before proceeding to the summit of...

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