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Prinzip Hoffnung, second ascent by Alex Luger
29/03/2010 - Climbing
Prinzip Hoffnung, second ascent by Alex Luger
On 06/12/2009 Alex Luger from Austria carried out the first repeat of Prinzip Hoffnung, the trad route established by Beat Kammerlander at the Bürser Platte in Austria.
Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
26/03/2010 - Climbing
Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson report directly from El Capitan in Yosemite with updates about their progress on what has become known as the immensely difficult Mescalito Dawn Wall project.
Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
23/03/2010 - Alpinism
Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
On 19 March 2010 Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini carried out the first winter ascent and third ascent overall of Captain Skyhook (500m + 380m pedestal, 7b+) on the Northwest Face of the Civetta, Dolomites.
La Piovra, new icefall on Monte Derbianco, Switzerland
04/03/2010 - Alpinism
La Piovra, new icefall on Monte Derbianco, Switzerland
On 13/02/2010 Nikita Uboldi, Ean Barelli and Andrea Cairoli carried out the first ascent of La Piovra (4. WI6- M7R A1), in the Prosito mountain range in Canton Ticino, Switzerland
Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
03/03/2010 - Climbing
Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
In January 2010 the Italians Alessandro Baù and Matteo Della Bordella carried out the first ascent of 'Fiducia al sentiero' (500m, 5.12c/7b+ max – 5.11d/7a obl.) on the South Face of Tatewari in the La Huasteca Natural Park, Monterrey, Mexico.
Argentiere Rive Gauche new mixed climbs
24/02/2010 - Alpinism
Argentiere Rive Gauche new mixed climbs
A handful of British climbers have established a series of new mixed routes at the Rive Gauche, Chamonix.
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
23/02/2010 - Competitions
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has ratified and recognised the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) during its Plenary Session at Vancouver, Canada. As the President of the IFSC Marco Scolaris explains, this is a fundamental step for sport climbing in its bid to become an Olympic sport.
First ascents in the Antarctica Queen Maud Land
First ascents in the Antarctica Queen Maud Land
A three man Austrian expedition to Queen Maud Land in the Antarctica at the end of 2009 resulted in eleven first ascents.
Andreas Proft, 8a+ solo and barefoot
13/02/2010 - Climbing
Andreas Proft, 8a+ solo and barefoot
Last week Andreas Proft from Germany climbed the route Path of Excess Power 8a+ at Echo Valley, Spain, without a rope and barefoot.
Simon Anthamatten interview
08/02/2010 - Interviews
Simon Anthamatten interview
Ellade Ossola interviews Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Simon Anthamatten, a key player in the mountaineering world with important ascents to his name which have their roots in his desire to maintain an "independent" alpinism.
Waiting for Godot, Torres del Paine, Patagonia first ascent by  Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
03/02/2010 - Climbing
Waiting for Godot, Torres del Paine, Patagonia first ascent by Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
Diary extract and interview with Hansjörg Auer after the first ascent of Waiting for Godot, Central Tower Torres del Paine, Patagonia, carried out with Much Mayr from Austria.
Reinhold Messner interview
27/01/2010 - Interviews
Reinhold Messner interview
Reinhold Messner, his life and alpinism beyond the 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
20/01/2010 - Alpinism
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
On 4 Janaury 2010 the Austrian climbers Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber carried out the first integral ascen of Gamsstubenfall (800m, WI7), one of the last great icefalls in the Gasteinertal, Austria. On 12 January Hauser climbed the classic icefall Supervisor (270m, WI6) without a rope.
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
17/01/2010 - Events
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
The fifteenth international Ice Festival took place in Ouray (USA) a fortnight ago. The event attracted thousands of ice climbers and the competition was won by Josh Wharton (USA) and Ines Papert (GER). Will Gadd from Canada climbed almost 8000m of vertical ice in a 24 hour non-stop marathon to...
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
12/01/2010 - Alpinism
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
On 07/01/2010 Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner made the first ascent of the 300m "Centercourt" in the Gasteinertal. Graded WI7+, this is the hardest pure iceline in Austria and one of the hardest in the world.
Roby project 8c/9a?
05/01/2010 - Climbing
Roby project 8c/9a?
It all took place at Terlago in Valle del Sarca, a stone's throw from Arco, Italy. But the story Manolo tells about this project which no longer exists could perhaps have taken place at any old crag...

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