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Brenta Base Camp #2 - two new routes up Punta Jolanda
25/08/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp #2 - two new routes up Punta Jolanda
The report by Alessandro Beber and Alessandro Baù about two new rock climbs on Punta Jolanda: Prua degli Onironauti (250m, VII) and Badanti al seguito (220m, VIII), established on 04/08/2014 together with Matteo Baù, Fabrizio Dellai, Matteo Faletti and Claudia Mario. The second report of the Brenta Base Camp, the...
Shark's Tooth, new climb in Greenland by Della Bordella, Schüpbach and Ledergerber
22/08/2014 - Alpinism
Shark's Tooth, new climb in Greenland by Della Bordella, Schüpbach and Ledergerber
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber have made the first ascent of The Great Shark Hunt, a new route up the Shark's Tooth in Greenland.
Difficult new trad climb in South Wales by Tom Randall
21/08/2014 - Climbing
Difficult new trad climb in South Wales by Tom Randall
British climber Tom Randall has made the first ascent of Dina Crac, E9 7a at Dinas Rock in South Wales.
Electric Funeral, new route in Canada's Bugaboos by Jon Walsh and Michelle Kadatz
20/08/2014 - Alpinism
Electric Funeral, new route in Canada's Bugaboos by Jon Walsh and Michelle Kadatz
Jon Walsh and Michelle Kadatz have made the first ascent of Electric Funeral (300m, 5.11+) on the Wide Awake Tower, Bugaboos, Canada.
Roger Schäli and the film Loslassen, let go
18/08/2014 - Book-press
Roger Schäli and the film Loslassen, let go
The entire version of Loslassen, let go is now online. This film recounts the ascent of Arwa Spire (6193m) in India together with Simon Gietl, but also talks about the human relationships.
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
14/08/2014 - Alpinism
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
On 4/09/2013 Giovani Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri made the first ascent of Astro Zap (7a), a line that climbs the crack avoided by the Via Diretta Bonatti, first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli in 1963 up Le Trident du Tacul in the Mont Blanc massif.
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
12/08/2014 - Alpinism
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
A great and intense and climbing trip to the Ak-su Valley (Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan) resulted in two new climbs and three repeats for the Italian alpinists Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo. Schiera provides the report.
No Rest For the Wicked, new route in Alaska by John Frieh and Jess Roskelley
08/08/2014 - Alpinism
No Rest For the Wicked, new route in Alaska by John Frieh and Jess Roskelley
On 29 and 30 May 2014 American alpinists John Frieh and Jess Roskelley made the first ascent of No Rest For the Wicked (IV+ AI6 M7), a difficult new route up the West Witches Tit in SE Alaska. The report by John Frieh.
Abella de la Conca: new routes and video
07/08/2014 - Climbing
Abella de la Conca: new routes and video
New sport climbs have been added and freed at Abella de la Conca in Spain by Klemen Becan Caroline Ciavaldini , Enzo Oddo, Kevin Aglae, Kevin Aglae, Jonas Schachtsneider, and James Pearson. The video by Francisco Taranto Jr.
New ice climbs in Chile by Cecilia Buil and Anna Torretta in Chile
06/08/2014 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Chile by Cecilia Buil and Anna Torretta in Chile
In mid-July Cecilia Buil from Spain and Anna Torretta from Italy made the first ascent of La Gioconda (160m, WI 6) a new ice climb on the glacier Cerro El Marmolejo (6109m, Chile) to which they then added the variation Le Bombardier (30m, WI 6-). The report by Anna Torretta.
Blåmannen Ikaros: the first free ascent by Thomas Meling
05/08/2014 - Alpinism
Blåmannen Ikaros: the first free ascent by Thomas Meling
On 9 June 2013 Thomas Meling made the first free ascent of Ikaros (7c), first climbed by Robert Caspersen, alone, in 1994 up the North Face of Blåmannen, Norway. The full report by Meling.
Then and now: the Lecco route on Grand Capucin
03/08/2014 - Alpinism
Then and now: the Lecco route on Grand Capucin
Matteo Della Bordella and Arianna Colliard and the ascent of the Lecco route up the SE Face of Grand Capucin, put up in 1968 by the Ragni di Lecco climbers Aldo Anghileri, Guerino Cariboni, Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Mauri and Pino Negri. A story to remember a great route up the...
Dent du Géant, new climb by Baud, Bouillanne and Charlet
01/08/2014 - Alpinism
Dent du Géant, new climb by Baud, Bouillanne and Charlet
On 29 June the French alpinists Christopher Baud, Brice Bouillanne and Jonathan Charlet made the first ascent of 'Cœurs de géant' (560m, ED M5+), a new route up the Dent du Géant, Mont Blanc massif.
Arco Rock Legends: the 2014 nominations
30/07/2014 - Events
Arco Rock Legends: the 2014 nominations
Friday, August 29, 2014 Arco Rock Legends celebrates its ninth edition by assigning, during the Rock Master Festival, the two prestigious sport climbing Oscars entitled Salewa Rock Award and La Sportiva Competition Award. Those nominated for the Salewa Rock Award are Alexander Megos, Adam Ondra and Muriel Sarkany, while Sachi...
K2 summits 60 years after the first ascent
29/07/2014 - Alpinism
K2 summits 60 years after the first ascent
Numerous successful K2 summits were registered on the 26th of July, sixty years after the first ascent of the second highest mountain in the world carried out by the historic Italian expedition. Successful ascents include those of K2 expedition 60 Years Later, supported by EvK2Cnr, which managed to place six...
Karl Unterkircher Award won by Simon Anthamatten, Matthias Auer and Hansjörg Auer
25/07/2014 - Alpinism
Karl Unterkircher Award won by Simon Anthamatten, Matthias Auer and Hansjörg Auer
On Wednesday, July 23 at Selva di Val Gardena, Dolomites, the 3rd Karl Unterkircher Award 2014 was given to Simon Anthamatten, Matthias Auer and Hansjörg Auer for their first ascent of the East Face of Kunyang Chhish, Karakorum / Pakistan.

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