SuperPiter on Mount Aga, new ice climb in the Bergamo Alps
On 04/03/2015 Yuri Parimbelli, Marco Kita Tiraboschi and Ennio Spiranelli made the first ascent of SuperPiter (450m, AI 6+ M6), a new mixed climb up Mount Aga, Bergamo Alps.
I’d never been to Mount Aga before, even though I’d often wanted to check it out. So when Yuri suggested we give it a go, I immediately accepted and something told me that I’d let myself in for a nice "trip". The line we’d chosen seemed to have all the hallmarks of being a beautiful and challenging outing.
After spending the night in the "sad" winter refuge of the Longo hut, first light saw us at the base of the gully, which at first glance looked excellent. Our only worry was… would we manage to breach the cave that towered overhead? No need to describe how happy we were when we noticed that a hole that enabled us to continue, quite simply fantastic!
The next pitch was the hardest, two thin drips, difficult to protect, outstanding… for the second! Three pitches that perfectly suited Parimbelli therefore. A fourth mixed pitch, still somewhat demanding, led us away from the main difficulties. From here two more pitches up a diagonal ramp took us to the snowy col.
At this point we could have traverse off to the left and exit the face, instead we decided to head on up to the summit. Another beautiful ice pitch followed by two mixed pitches allowed us to enjoy the well-deserved view from the top. It 's true, we were in the Bergamo Alps, not on a massive alpine peak, but nevertheless I believe SuperPiter is a fine climb.
SuperPiter is dedicated to Peter Biasini, a great friend and colleague of Yuri.
note Three days later four friends repeated the climb, confirming its beauty and difficulty.
Ennio Spiranelli, CAAI
Thanks to: Zamberlan, Grivel, GrandeGrimpe, CMC Serina and Tavernetta di Branzi for the superb hospitality.
TOPO: SuperPiter, Monte Aga