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Rock Junior: the great game of climbing
08/06/2009 - Events
Rock Junior: the great game of climbing
The 8th Rock Junior in Arco was a triumph of the game of climbing. Once again this is an unmissable event for youth climbing and for the hundreds of youngsters who, with their parents, assaulted the Climbing Stadium.
Top sport climbing: searching for the lost limit
04/06/2009 - Climbing
Top sport climbing: searching for the lost limit
The latest news from the crags, or rather, when 9a isn't that difficult anymore and 8c approaches a rest... Dani Andrada, Markus Bock, Edu Marin, Adam Ondra, Gérôme Pouvreau, Chris Sharma, Maja Vidmar but also Dino Lagni and Luca Zardini.
More about Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and the questions of style
03/06/2009 - Alpinism
More about Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and the questions of style
The letter by Andreas Dick concerning 'A question of style: Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and all the 14 8000m peaks' and the reply by the author of the article, Manuel Lugli. Furthermore we've published the thoughts by Cristina Castagna, the Italian mountaineer from Valdagno who has climbed 4 8000m peaks and...
A question of style: Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and all the 14 8000m peaks
26/05/2009 - Alpinism
A question of style: Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and all the 14 8000m peaks
Edurne Pasaban with Kanchenjunga and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner with Lhotse have reached the summit of 12 8000m peaks. Nives Meroi and Romano Benet on the other hand have had to abandon their Kanchenjunga summit bid and have therefore climbed 11. The thoughts of Manuel Lugli about this female "race" to complete...
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
12/05/2009 - Competitions
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
The XVII Mezzalama Trophy took place on Monte Rosa on 02/05/2009. The legendary ski mountaineering competition was won by Manfred Reichegger, Matteo Eydallin and Denis Trento in a record breaking 4:01'22. The women's event was won by Francesca Martinelli, Roberta Pedranzini, Laetitia Roux in 4:43'31".
First ascents in Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, Patagonia
04/05/2009 - Climbing
First ascents in Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, Patagonia
In February a small American team of climbers carried out a first ascent of Voces en la Noche, (V 5.11 A0) on Pirita Right in the remote Argentian Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, while a Canadian team produced Todos los Caballos Lindos (5.11-) on Pirita Central.
Adam Ondra raids Italy
21/04/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra raids Italy
Adam Ondra has returned to Italy and carried out the first ascent of "Vento nei Capelli" 8c+/9a at Cornalba and "La grande linea dei sogni"8c+/9a at Erto.
Lofoten climbing meeting by Norwegian Alpine Club
14/04/2009 - Alpinism
Lofoten climbing meeting by Norwegian Alpine Club
At the start of March the Norwegian Alpine Club (Norsk Tindeklub, NTK) hosted an international climbing meeting on the remote Lofoten islands. 40 climbers from 15 different nations attended the event designed to raise awareness of the climbing potential on the islands and to highlight the importance of Norway's immense...
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
31/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
On 13 and 14 March Luca Vuerich and Massimo Laurencig carried out the first winter ascent of the difficult Fessura Lomasti (400m, VI, pass. di VIII-) on the pre-summit of Cima Grande della Scala (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps, Italy).
Morteratsch East, Bernina first ascent by Maspes, Panizza and Turk
28/03/2009 - Alpinism
Morteratsch East, Bernina first ascent by Maspes, Panizza and Turk
On 21 March Luca Maspes, Emanuel Panizza and Christian Turk carried out the first ascent of the ESE Face of Morteratsch (3751m) in the Bernina mountain range.
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.
Melloblocco 2009 - you know the score
19/03/2009 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2009 - you know the score
The sixth edition of the Melloblocco will take place in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy). This annual international bouldering meeting attracts thousands of boulderers and climbers from all over the world.
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
13/03/2009 - Climbing
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
Beat Kammerlander has made the first ascent of the trad route "Prinzip Hoffnung" (8b/8b+, E9-E10) at the Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg, Austria.
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
06/03/2009 - Alpinism
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli travelled to Norway in February and carried out three important first ascents, including Fosslimonster M8+, WI6+, E5, 800m height difference, ca.1000m length at Aurland.
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
02/03/2009 - Climbing
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
Tyler Landman from England has made a series of hard repeats in Fontainebleau, France, including the second ascent of Satan i Helvete assis, the FB8C.
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.

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