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David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
23/01/2012 - Alpinism
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...
Ice Climbing World Cup 2012: Angelika Rainer and Maxim Tomilov win in Saas Fee
23/01/2012 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2012: Angelika Rainer and Maxim Tomilov win in Saas Fee
0-21/01/2012. At Saas Fee (Switzerland) Angelika Rainer from Italy and Maxim Tomilov from Russia won the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2012. In doing so they have won two events in a row and, in addition, the Swiss stage also counts as the European Championship. The Speed...
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.
Alex Honnold, interview after Too Big To Flail at the Buttermilks
19/01/2012 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, interview after Too Big To Flail at the Buttermilks
A short interview with Alex Honnold after his first ascent of the boulder Too Big To Flail at the Buttermilks, Bishop, USA.
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
19/01/2012 - Alpinism
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
On the North Face of Petit Dru (3754m) Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith have carried out what is likely to be the first free ascent of the Voie Lesueur (ED3, M8+, 900m) with some drytooling sections and a new variation finish.
Alex Honnold, new super highball at Bishop
16/01/2012 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, new super highball at Bishop
At the Buttermilks in Bishop (USA) Alex Honnold has freed Too Big to Flail, a super highball up the immense Luminance Block.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2012: Angelika Rainer and Maxime Tomilov win in Korea
15/01/2012 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2012: Angelika Rainer and Maxime Tomilov win in Korea
The first of five stages of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2012 took place in Cheongsong (Korea) on 14 and 15 January. The Lead event was won by Angelika Rainer and Maxime Tomilov, while the Speed discipline went to the Russians Viktoria Shabalina and Ivan Spitsyn.
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
13/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
On 12/01/2012 Simone Moro and Denis Urubko acclimatised at 5400m on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. Their attempt at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat will be via the line attempted by Messner and Eisendle in 2000, and not via the Kinshofer route.
Adam Ondra, the routes I cannot climb!
12/01/2012 - Interviews
Adam Ondra, the routes I cannot climb!
Czech climber Adam Ondra talks to Planetmountain about the sport climbs he has failed to climb. Hubble, Three Degrees of Separation, Underground and many more.
Paul Robinson tops Meadowlark Lemon, an 8C boulder problem in Nevada
12/01/2012 - Climbing
Paul Robinson tops Meadowlark Lemon, an 8C boulder problem in Nevada
Yesterday at Gateway Canyon in Nevada Paul Robinson freed his boulder problem Meadowlark Lemon 8C, the sitdown variation Meadowlark Lemon Stand.
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
11/01/2012 - Climbing
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
Severino "Seve" Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis have freed an old route at the crag Coup di Rore in Val Varaita (Piemonte, Italy). Established with the use of aid during the 1970's, the route breaches the large roof and remained a project until autumn 2011. A story of past and...
Magnus Midtbø and Directa open your mind at Santa Linya
10/01/2012 - Climbing
Magnus Midtbø and Directa open your mind at Santa Linya
The video of Magnus Midtboe sending Directa open your mind 9a at Santa Linya, Spain.
Daniel Woods and Dai Koyamada, two new extreme boulder problems
10/01/2012 - Climbing
Daniel Woods and Dai Koyamada, two new extreme boulder problems
In the Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) Daniel Woods has freed Mirror Reality 8B+, while at Toyota in Japan Dai Koyamada has freed Shanbara 8C, a sit start to his Agartha.
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Venas Azules on Torre Egger in Patagonia. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
04/01/2012 - Alpinism
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Venas Azules on Torre Egger in Patagonia. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
Rolando Garibotti and the interview and meeting with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, the Norwegian alpinist who in December 2011 together with Ole Lied established the route Venas Azules up the South Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia.
Chris Webb Parsons climbing training in England
31/12/2011 - Climbing
Chris Webb Parsons climbing training in England
Video of Chris Webb Parsons during his training on the gritstone at Burbage and in England's gyms.
Bouldering until the end of the world
29/12/2011 - Competitions
Bouldering until the end of the world
The great bouldering contest to save the world kicked off on 20/12/2011 at the Wild King Boulder Arena in Verona, Italy. This competition will take place every month until 20/12/2012 and is open to everyone who wishes to battle it out on three extreme problems to exorcise the Maya prophecy.

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