474 News found

The story of the recent repeat of Divine Providence by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire. Established in 1984 by French alpinists Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny and graded ABO, Divine Providence up the Gran Pilier d'Angle was freed in 1990 by Alain Ghersen and Thierry Renault. Even today this...

The nominations for the VIII edition of Arco Rock Legends that will take place on Friday 6 September 2013 during the Rock Master Festival to assign both the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award. In the running for the sport climbing Oscars are Steve McClure, Alexander Megos,...

At Balmanolesca in NW Italy James Pearson made the first repeat, and first trad ascent, of A Denti Stretti 8b+, while at nearby Cadarese Caroline Ciavaldini made a trad ascent of Grazie Rickie 8a+ .

Norwegian climber Magnus Midtbø has onsighted Cosi fan tutte 8c+ at Rodellar. He is now the fifth sports climber to onsight this grade.

British climber Tom Randall has onsighted the 8a crack climb Turkey Crack at the Italian crag Cadarese. Today he repeated the famous route The Doors.

Interview with 19-year-old German climber Alexander Megos after the historic first on-sight of a 9a climb, Estado Critico at Siurana in Spain.

On 24/03/2013 Alexander Megos on-sighted Estado Critico at Siurana in Spain, becoming the first climber in the world to climb a 9a onsight.

In Patagonia the Belgian alpinists Stephane Hanssens, Merlin Didier and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll made the first free ascents of the East Face of Cerro Catedral (1000 m, 7c+) and the East Face of Cerro Cota 2000 (500m, 7c+) while on Fitz Roy they climbed 900m of virgin ground up the...

The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean style.

On 27/01/2013 Croatian climber Ivan Lisica-Lija made the third repeat of Il Maratoneta, the legendary route first climbed by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla at Paklenica (Croatia).

At Montsant in Spain the Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi has onsighted two 8b+, Falconeti and L-mens.

Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.

Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for...

While Italian climbers Gabriele Moroni and Silvio Reffo are now at Siurana, at Montsant in Spain Jacopo Larcher has onsighted his second 8b+, Les Elements.

Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.

At Moab (USA) Jean-Pierre Ouellet has made the first ascents of two difficult new climbs: Mexican Snow Fairy 5.13+ and Fisting the Crack 5.13-.