Home page Planetmountain.com
Simon Lorenzi making the first ascent of Soudain seul (Big island assis) at Fontainbleau, for which he has proposed the grade 9A
Photo by Gilles Charlier / gillescharlier.com
Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi after having made the first ascent of Soudain seul (Big island assis) at Fontainbleau in France
Photo by Gilles Charlier / gillescharlier.com

Simon Lorenzi establishes Soudain seul at Fontainebleau and proposes 9A boulder

by

Belgian rock climber Simon Lorenzi has freed the sit start to Big Island at Fontainebleau in France, calling the extension Soudain seul and grading it 9A.

Simon Lorenzi from Belgium has added a sit start to one of the boulders that had most attracted the attention of the world’s climbing elite, the famous Big island at Fontainebleau in France. The bloc was initially climbed in 2008 by the America’s Dave Graham who called it The island, then in 2010 local hotshot Vincent Pochont started two holds lower to create The Big Island. The coveted compression moves go at around 8B+/C.


Lorenzi repeated The Big Island last October, finding a new sequence to stick the famous sloper with his left hand instead of his right, and sending the problem on the fourth attempt on only his second day. Motivated by this rapid success, earlier this year he returned to try the obvious next step which adds a further 10 moves and an obvious sit start. After 6 sessions Lorenzi unlocked the sequence but required 25 sessions in total to link all the moves; this is one of the reasons he believes Big island assis, now called Soudain Seul, may be 9A/V17, putting it right up there among the absolute hardest in the world.

Currently there is only one other 9A boulder problem, Burden of Dreams established by Nalle Hukkataival in Finland in October 2016 and still awaiting a repeat (and confirmation therefore), while No Kapote Only at Fontainebleau, for which Charles Albert in 2019 had suggested 9A, was subsequently downgraded.

"After all the reflexions 9a/V17 looks to be the appropriate grade regarding where is our sport now." Lorenzi wrote on his Instagram channel "Have new kind of reference in a level is something important in climbing. That push the sport further and it's also add a new point of comparison in this grade. As always the time and the repetitions will tell us!"

Lorenzi thanks: SCARPAPetzl, Adeps, Patagonia, gillescharlier.com


Simon Lorenzi The Big Island 10/2020

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Simon Lorenzi sends Quoi de neuf classic roof bloc at Orsay in France
24.09.2020
Simon Lorenzi sends Quoi de neuf classic roof bloc at Orsay in France
The video of Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi on Quoi de neuf, an 8B + boulder problem at Orsay in France.


Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world’s first 9A boulder problem
24.10.2016
Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world’s first 9A boulder problem
Finnish rock climber Nalle Hukkataival has made the first ascent of Burden of Dreams, his project at Lappnor in Finland, for which he has now suggested 9A. Should the grade be confirmed, this would be the first boulder problem to breach this difficulty worldwide.
Nicolas Januel finds Le sens de la fête 8B+ boulder at Fontainebleau
27.01.2021
Nicolas Januel finds Le sens de la fête 8B+ boulder at Fontainebleau
The video of French rock climber Nico Januel who has made the first ascent of Le sens de la fête 8B+ boulder at Fontainebleau.
Solenne Piret inspirational on Onde de Choc at Fontainebleau
20.01.2021
Solenne Piret inspirational on Onde de Choc at Fontainebleau
On Saturday 9 January 2021 French paraclimber Solenne Piret made a remarkable ascent of Onde de Choc, a 7B boulder problem at Fontainebleau.
Petition against oil drilling close to Fontainebleau
16.10.2020
Petition against oil drilling close to Fontainebleau
A petition has been launched by Environnement Bocage Gâtinais (EBG) against an Oil Drilling project just 4 km from the Fontainebleau forest, famous for being the world's bouldering mecca. On the 19th of October EBG will present the petition to the commissioner.
Oriane Bertone at Fontainebleau frees her first 8C boulder problem
27.05.2020
Oriane Bertone at Fontainebleau frees her first 8C boulder problem
15-year-old climber Oriane Bertone has climbed what she believes to be her first 8C boulder problem, Satan I Helvete low start at Fontainebleau in France. As the name suggests, this adds a low start to the famous problem put up by Dave Graham in 2003.
Caroline Sinno at Fontainebleau climbs her first 8B, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre
08.05.2019
Caroline Sinno at Fontainebleau climbs her first 8B, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre
French climber Caroline Sinno has climbed her first 8B boulder problem, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre, at Fontainebleau
Women's Bouldering Festival in Fontainebleau
04.03.2019
Women's Bouldering Festival in Fontainebleau
The video of the first Women's Bouldering Festival in Fontainebleau in September 2018. The next Festival will take place from 28-29/09/2019.
Charles Albert at Fontainebleau climbs world's second 9A boulder problem
19.01.2019
Charles Albert at Fontainebleau climbs world's second 9A boulder problem
At Fontainebleau in France Charles Albert, climbing barefoot, has established No Kapote Only, a boulder problem he believes to be 9A. This is only the second boulder in the world graded 9A, after Burden of Dreams freed by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016 in Finland.
Charles Albert frees Fontainebleau's first 8C+
10.11.2017
Charles Albert frees Fontainebleau's first 8C+
French climber Charles Albert has freed the extension to La Révolutionnaire, suggesting 8C+. If confirmed, this becomes the first problem in Fontainebleau (France) to be graded 8C+ and also one of the hardest boulder problems in the world.
Niccolò Ceria, 5 star boulder problems at Fontainebleau
04.07.2017
Niccolò Ceria, 5 star boulder problems at Fontainebleau
Some of the best, but also most secluded boulder problems at Fontainebleau in France introduced by Italy’s Niccolò Ceria in this report and video after a month bouldering and climbing on his own last spring in the forest on the outskirts of Paris.
C'était demain, the first 8A boulder problem in Fontainebleau
22.06.2017
C'était demain, the first 8A boulder problem in Fontainebleau
The series The Classics | Boulder introduces C'était demain, the famous first 8A boulder problem at Fontainebleau in France. Jakob Schubert and Anna Stöhr attempt to repeat the bloc first climbed in the cradle of bouldering by French climbing champion Jacky Godoffe back in 1984.
Mélissa Le Nevé becomes first woman to boulder 8B+ at Fontainebleau
23.03.2017
Mélissa Le Nevé becomes first woman to boulder 8B+ at Fontainebleau
With her recent ascent of Mécanique élémentaire, French climber Mélissa Le Nevé has become the first woman to climb an 8B+ boulder problem at Fontainebleau in France.
Le Petit Toit, a eulogy to the madness of bouldering at Fontainebleau
11.10.2016
Le Petit Toit, a eulogy to the madness of bouldering at Fontainebleau
The exhilarating video of the attempts to climb Le Petit Toit, a classic boulder problem put up by Jo Montchaussé at the sector 95.2 in Fontainebleau, France.
Charles Albert bouldering barefoot in Fontainebleau
22.02.2016
Charles Albert bouldering barefoot in Fontainebleau
Interview with French climber Charles Albert who, bouldering barefoot, has climbed up to 8C in Fontainebleau, France.
Niccolò Ceria bouldering 60 days at Fontainebleau
06.05.2015
Niccolò Ceria bouldering 60 days at Fontainebleau
The short report by Italian climber Niccolò Ceria who has just spent 60 days bouldering in the magical forest of Fontainebleau in France where he climbed, among others, The Big Island 8C and flashed Ubik assis 8B.
Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau
26.01.2012
Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau
Two videos documenting Adam Ondra's first bouldering trip to Fontainebleau, France.
Paul Robinson in Fontainebleau
05.01.2011
Paul Robinson in Fontainebleau
In just 10 days Paul Robinson has sent three Fb8B+ eand four Fb8B at Fontainebleau in France.
23.03.2005
Parisse feels Fontainebleau Karma
On 15 March Luca Parisse repeated Karma 8a+ at Fontainebleau, Paris, France.
17.12.2000
Dave Graham in Fontainebleau
The young American has spent 45 days repeating many of the hardest boulder problems in Fontainebleau

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
INFO
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
NEWSLETTER

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer