Nicolai Užnik working 'Full Gem' (8C+) at Chironico
Nicolai Užnik archive
Nicolai Užnik frees Full Gem (8C+) at Chironico
Austrian climber Nicolai Užnik has made the first ascent of 'Full Gem', an 8C+ boulder problem at Chironico in Switzerland.
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Nicolai Užnik working 'Full Gem' (8C+) at Chironico
Nicolai Užnik archive
Austrian Nicolai Užnik has made the first ascent of Full Gem at Chironico in Switzerland. The line is sitdown start to Forgotten Gem, the 8C put up by Kim Marschner in February 2022 and repeated by Užnik last year.
The sit start adds a further four "quite basic but hard moves that make the whole line significantly harder." Užnik required another 6 sessions for the send on the 30th of January, and has now suggested 8C+.
Užnik is a seasoned competition climber; the two-times Austrian champion won gold at the European Bouldering Championships in 2022. In March 2025 he made the first ascent of his hardest problem to date, the 9A Mount Doom in Maltatal, Austria.
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