Luca Bacer sends Xaxid hostel (9a) at Mišja Peč in Slovenia

After his first 9a at the start of 2024 at Mišja Peč in Slovenia, Italian climber Luca Bacer has now sent his second of this grade in the same crag just across the border. While two years ago Bacer climbed the intense and ultra-overhanging Sanjski par extension, this time he completely changed his playing field and sent Xaxid Hostel, the very long testpiece in the center of the main wall, freed in 2009 by double world champion Tomáš Mrázek.

Originally rated 9a+ due to the crux moves from a smooth edge requiring fingers of steel, over time the grade has settled at 9a, confirmed by the few illustrious repeats which include - as far as the Italian scene is concerned - Stefano Carnati, Laura Rogora and Gabriele Gorobey.

To complete the classic trio of 9a's at the crag, Bacer now needs to send Martin Krpan. Meanwhile, on his Instagram account, the 27-year-old recounted: "Last Friday, after a very good attempt, something clicked in my head. Just one rest, not too much effort and fluid climbing. Yesterday the conditions didn't seem optimal, but as Alex Megos says: 'there are no bad conditions, only weakness.' So yesterday, on the first useful attempt of the day, I entered that state of flow which, unfortunately, happens very rarely. Past the crux, the climbing was pure fun, no stress or anxiety but a pleasure, all the way to the top of the wall."

 

 

 

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Luca Bacer (@lucabacer)