Jorge Díaz-Rullo makes first ascent of monster Café Colombia at Margalef

After more than 240 days of efforts Jorge Díaz-Rullo has finally sent his cutting-edge Café Colombia project at Margalef in Spain. Located at the insanely steep Racó de la Finestra sector, Café Colombia features 40 intense moves and although currently ungraded, promises to join the ranks of the world’s hardest routes.

Díaz-Rullo first started trying the line in autumn 2021 and in the months and years years that followed, he poured himself into it with a dedication that, by his own admission, bordered on addiction. In November 2021 he climbed the lower half and exited leftwards to create the 9b Cafe Solo, but despite his almost obsessive focus and dedication, the direct line eluded him, despite having climbed numerous 9b's and three 9b+: Mejorando la Samfaina at Margalef in February 2023, Bibliographie at Céüse in France in October that year, and Change at Flatanger in Norway in 2024

He never lost focus though and on 13 March he clipped the anchors in disbelief. "Before starting the send go I didn’t feel anything special. I couldn’t even imagine that it would be the day. But while climbing, I felt incredibly strong physically, as if everything was flowing. It was the best four minutes of climbing of my life" explained the 27-year-old.

Talking to planetmountain in April last year, he described the project as "a real monster, it is simply very very hard (or at least for me)! It is one of the most demanding and intimidating I have ever tried. The route is impressive, it is a totally straight line of about 30m on a wall which is about 45° overhanging, on small and sharp holds, without any rest. When you see it from below it seems impossible, but then climbing it, it just about has all the necessary holds in order for it to be climbable."

He shared his successful redpoint on Instagram by stating: "I still can’t believe it’s real! For years, everything revolved around this project. There were very difficult moments, but I never stopped dreaming that it was possible. I pushed my limits in every way. I obsessed over every tiny detail. I worked harder than I ever had before, trying to reach a level that once felt impossible. After 240 days, everything aligned and my dream became real. A fight I will remember forever. Thank you to everyone who walked this long road with me. And thank you CC, for shaping me into the climber I am today."

Díaz-Rullo wished to thank the support of his sponsors: Sputnik Climbing, Petzl, SCARPA, E9, and Climbskin.

 

 

 

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