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Mescalito sulla Rupe Secca, Monte Colodri: Carlo Cosi reaching the roof on pitch 6 (6c+)
Photo by Sara Mastel
Mescalito sulla Rupe Secca, Monte Colodri: Sara Mastel on pitch 5 (6b). This begins with a beautiful corner before finishing up a technical slab
Photo by Carlo Cosi
Mescalito sulla Rupe Secca, Monte Colodri: Sara Mastel reaching the belay after the traverse across the ledge on pitch 4 (6a)
Photo by Carlo Cosi
Monte Colodri at Arco, on the left Rupe Secca and Rupe del Castello
Photo by Planetmountain.com

Arco rock climbing: Mescalito on Colodri, the classic multi pitch climb by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori

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The route topo of Mescalito up Rupe Secca on Monte Colodri in Arco, the multi-pitch rock climb first ascended in 1982 by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori and widely considered a masterpiece of the Sarca Valley. By Carlo Cosi, mountain guide.

"Bold climb whose name is reminiscent of undertakings in Yosemite Valley, up El Capitan. This however is a wonderful free climb." These are the words used in by 1984 Roberto Bassi to describe the multi-pitch rock climb Mescalito in his cult guidebook "Arrampicare in Valle di Sarca, on the limestone white of Arco and surroundings." How right he was!

The climb established ground-up and completed on 25 November 1982 by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori up the Rupe Secca, the large rock face that forms part of Cima Colodri, is a marvellous outing just a stone's throw from the center of Arco. The line is renowned as one of the most beautiful rock climbs in the entire Sarca valley, initially graded VI+/A2 but nowadays, with the addition of bolts at the belays and the pitches, it’s been slightly "tamed" and results in a great 260m climb (9 pitches) up to 6c/6c +.

The rock is fairly polished due to the numerous repeats, in particular the corner at the start, a section on pitch two and the crux on pitch 3. Generally speaking though the route is still great fun. An absolute classic dating back to the early 80’s that even today proves exciting.

by Carlo Cosi, mountain guide

www.carlocosi.com


TOPO: Via Mescalito, Rupe Secca, Colodri, Arco

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