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German rock climber Alexander Megos. Born on 12 August 1993, Megos shot to fame in 2013 with the world’s first 9a onsight, Estado Critico at Siurana in Spain. After his first 9a+ a few days later - La Rambla on only his second attempt - his first 9b came in late 2015 with his repeat of First Round First Minute at Margalef. The following year he established his own 9b, Fight club in Canada, while 9b+ dates to 2018 with his Perfecto Mundo. In August 2020 he made the first ascent of Bibliographie at Céüse, the second 9c in the world.
Photo by Thomas Ballenberger
Alex Megos making a flash ascent of Underground, the historic 9a at Massone in Arco freed by Manfred Stuffer in 1998.
Photo by Alexander Megos archive
Alexander Megos climbing Bibliographie 9c at Céüse in France. After 60 days of effort this is now the most difficult sport climb in France and only the second 9c in the world.
Photo by Ken Etzel

Alexander Megos flashes Underground 9a at Arco

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Yesterday at Massone in Arco German rock climber Alex Megos managed to flash Underground, Italy’s historic 9a established by Manfred Stuffer in 1998.

So there you have it. The route which some time ago was the hardest in Italy, the line that fuelled the dreams of at least two generations of climbers and which all the world’s best have at least given a go, has been pulverised by the man on the moment, Alexander Megos.

Relying on the beta given to him by Cesar Grosso, the German sent the historic Underground in the cool underbelly of Massone at Arco in a brace of shakes, claiming the hardest flash in Italy to date. Initially graded 8c+, over time the route has been upgraded slightly. After his ascent in 2000, Japan’s Yuji Hirayama suggested 8c+/9a, while in 2002 the ace climbers Tomas Mrazek and Christian Bindhammer both suggested 9a

Megos is on fire - last month he established the world’s second 9c sport climb, Bibliographie at Céüse in France, only to make the swift second ascent of the 9a+/b L'étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs a few days later - and obviously the 27-year-old is no newcomer to feats of this sort; in 2013 at Siurana in Spain for instance he became the first person in the world to onsight 9a.

Megos’ flash yesterday proves once again just how far climbing has progressed in the last few decades. Underground was first ascended by Manfred Stuffer in 1998. Megos at the time was a mere five years old.

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NEWS / Related news:
Alexander Megos frees Bibliographie at Céüse, the world’s second 9c
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Alexander Megos frees Bibliographie at Céüse, the world’s second 9c
At Céüse in France the German climber Alex Megos has made the first ascent of Bibliographie and suggested the grade 9c. This is now the most difficult sport climb in France and only the second in the world this difficult.
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The film Rotpunkt featuring Alexander Megos; a portrait of the German climber and a look into the history of free climbing including the likes of Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich.
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Interview with 19-year-old German climber Alexander Megos after the historic first on-sight of a 9a climb, Estado Critico at Siurana in Spain.
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On 24/03/2013 Alexander Megos on-sighted Estado Critico at Siurana in Spain, becoming the first climber in the world to climb a 9a onsight.
Laura Rogora repeats Underground, first female ascent of historical testpiece at Massone
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Sport climbing at Arco Italy: at Massone Laura Rogora has made the first female ascent of Underground, a historic 9a established in 1998 by Manfred Stuffer.
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Underground climbed by Jacopo Larcher at Massone, Arco
The report by Italian climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Underground, the 9a sports climb freed in 1998 by Manfred Stuffer at Massone close to Arco (Lake Garda – Trentino), Italy.
Alexander Feichter repeats Underground at Massone, Arco
17.04.2015
Alexander Feichter repeats Underground at Massone, Arco
On 21/03/2015 Alexander Feichter redpointed the classic 9a sport climbing test Underground 9a at Massone, Arco, Italy.
Silvio Reffo climbs Underground at Arco
27.10.2014
Silvio Reffo climbs Underground at Arco
At Massone, Arco, Italy, Silvio Reffo has repeated the sports climb Underground 9a.
Gabriele Moroni climbs Underground 9a at Massone
02.09.2014
Gabriele Moroni climbs Underground 9a at Massone
Italian climber Gabriele Moroni has repeated Underground 9a at Massone, Arco.
Domen Skofic repeats Underground at Arco
29.08.2014
Domen Skofic repeats Underground at Arco
Yesterday 20-year-old Domen Skofic repeated Underground 9a at Arco.
Lukasz Dudek leads Underground at Massone, Arco
02.05.2009
Lukasz Dudek leads Underground at Massone, Arco
On 18 April, one of the leading Polish rock climbers Lukasz Dudek climbed the Arco classic - Underground 8c+/9a at Massone, Italy.
01.06.2005
Brenna no longer Underground
On 25 May Cristian Brenna managed to make the seventh redpoint of Underground 8c+/9a at Massone (Arco, Italy).
Christian Bindhammer sends Underground and Ground Zero
15.10.2002
Christian Bindhammer sends Underground and Ground Zero
Christian Bindhammer sends two of Italy’s hardest, the classic Underground 9a and Alberto Gnerro's brand new Ground Zero 9a.
20.09.2000
Yuji Hirayama climbs Underground 8c+
Hirayama redpoints seventh 8c+ at Massone, Italy

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