Adam Ondra continues his victory march on Dawn Wall
Further progress on Dawn Wall for Adam Ondra who free climbed the entire crux section yesterday and continued on to the Wino Tower. 11 relatively easy pitches still need to be climbed to complete the first repeat of this route on El Capitan in Yosemite, considered the hardest big wall in the world.
Adam Ondra’s victory march towards the summit of El Capitan continues at breakneck speed. The other evening Ondra managed to redpoint 2/3 of the crux section of Dawn Wall by sending the two 9a pitches, while yesterday he sent the 16th pitch. At this point there are two alternatives and Ondra opted to follow the Loop Pitch variation as Tommy Caldwell had done, instead of climbing the more direct Dyno Pitch with the famous dyno as per Kevin Jorgeson. Suddenly unshackled, Ondra then continued on to the Wino Tower which marks the end of the route’s major technical difficulties.
Eleven pitches now remain and Ondra had climbed these relatively easily during the only time he inspected the upper section, and the only thing that could stop the 23-year-old from achieving the coveted second ascent of Dawn Wall is a major shift in the weather. But Ondra won’t be taking any prisoners and already tomorrow he hopes to reach the summit with Pavel Blažek.
On Instagram he explained: "Made it to the Wino tower tonight! Deep satisfaction, peace and fire at the same time in my heart and soul. Perfect conditions today and perfect focus. That means only 11 "easy" (5.10 - 5.12) pitches left. We would have continued, but looks like it will rain soon. Which means forced restday tomorrow and hopefully finishing it off on Monday."
THE INDIVIDUAL PITCHS
P1: 5.12b, P2: 5.13a, P3: 5.13c, P4: 5.12b, P5: 5.12d, P6: 5.13c, P7: 5.14a, P8: 5.13d, P9: 5.13c, P10: 5.14a, P11: 5.13c, P12: 5.14b, P13: 5.13b, P14: 5.14d, P15: 5.14d, P16: Dyno Pitch 5.14d, Loop Pitch 5.14c, P17: 5.14a, P18: 5.13c, P19: 5.13c, P20: 5.13c, P21: 5.13c, P22: 5.12c, P23: 5.9, P24: 5.11, P25: 5.11, P26: 5.11d, P27: 5.11c, P28: 5.12c, P29: 5.12b, P30: 5.13a, P31: 5.12a, P32: 5.12b
5.9 (5a): 1
5.11 (6b+): 4
5.12 (7a+): 8
5.13a (7c+): 2
5.13b (8a): 1
5.13c (8a+): 7
5.13d (8b): 2
5.14a (8b+): 4
5.14b (8c): 1
5.14d (9a): 2
15/01/2015 - Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
19/10/2016 - Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
23/10/2016 - Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #1
29/10/2016 - Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #2
07/11/2016 - Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #3
15/11/2016 - Adam Ondra starts 'final push' on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
19/11/2016 - Dawn Wall: Adam Ondra on cloud nine on El Capitan