Risk reduction in mountaineering, the Chamonix High Mountain Military Group video
How to manage risk in the mountains, analysed in this fun video by French alpinists Léo Billon, Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre belonging to the Chamonix High Mountain Military Group (GMHM) after their climbing expedition to Patagonia where they ascended Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy.
The recent expedition carried out by the elite French Groupe Militaire de haute montagne (GMHM) to Patagonia and the ascents of Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy serve as a backdrop to examine, in a lighthearted manner, an absolutely fundamental aspect of climbing mountains: risk management.
Last January leading French alpinists Léo Billon, Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre successfully climbed Cerro Torre via the SE Ridge, more commonly known as the Compressor Route, and Fitz Roy via its stunning El Corazon. The video below analyses all the factors they assessed to reach the summit and, above all, descend safely.
Info: www.gmhm.fr, FB Gmhm
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16.02.2016
Cerro Torre SE Ridge Compressor Route: second free ascent. Interview with Mikey Schaefer
Interview with American alpinist Mikey Schaefer who, together with Andrew Rothner and Josh Wharton, carried out the second free ascent of the Southeast Ridge Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia from 4 to 6 February 2016. The first free ascent was carried out in 2012 by David Lama and Peter Ortner.
Cerro Torre SE Ridge Compressor Route: second free ascent. Interview with Mikey Schaefer
Interview with American alpinist Mikey Schaefer who, together with Andrew Rothner and Josh Wharton, carried out the second free ascent of the Southeast Ridge Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia from 4 to 6 February 2016. The first free ascent was carried out in 2012 by David Lama and Peter Ortner.
04.02.2016
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out by David Lama (20-21/01/2012 together with Peter Ortner, with a variation on the headwall) is also the first and so far only totally free ascent. The second ascent was carried out by the Slovenians Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj. The report by Matteo Della Bordella.
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out by David Lama (20-21/01/2012 together with Peter Ortner, with a variation on the headwall) is also the first and so far only totally free ascent. The second ascent was carried out by the Slovenians Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj. The report by Matteo Della Bordella.
19.05.2014
David Lama, Cerro Torre and the Compressor route
Interview with Austrian alpinist David Lama two years after the first free ascent of the Compressor route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia, carried out with Peter Ortner in January 2012.
David Lama, Cerro Torre and the Compressor route
Interview with Austrian alpinist David Lama two years after the first free ascent of the Compressor route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia, carried out with Peter Ortner in January 2012.
24.01.2012
David Lama talks about the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
The report by David Lama about his first free ascent of the Compressor route up the SE Ridge of Cerro Torre (Patagonia), carried out by the Austrian climber from 20 - 21 January 2012.
David Lama talks about the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
The report by David Lama about his first free ascent of the Compressor route up the SE Ridge of Cerro Torre (Patagonia), carried out by the Austrian climber from 20 - 21 January 2012.
23.01.2012
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently by Jason Kruk and Hayden Kennedy.
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently by Jason Kruk and Hayden Kennedy.
20.01.2012
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.
