New climb on Dente di Mezzaluna, Valgerola

On 8 June 2014, Cristian Candiotto, Fabrizio Guerra and Valentina Manni mde the first ascent of "Ich liebe dich", (V/VI, 210m) on Dente di Mezzaluna, Valgerola. Orobie Alps. Carlo Mazzoleni provides the information.
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Ich liebe dich (V/VI, 210m, Cristian Candiotto, Fabrizio Guerra, Valentina Manni 08/06/2014), Dente di Mezzaluna, Valgerola
archivio Cristian Candiotto
The story behind this route is particular, Cristian is in charge of the Morbegno Mountain Rescue team, Fabrizio is vice presidet and a good friend, while Valentina is learning to become a member of the team and getting to grips with rope manoeuvres. We're friends and they chose the area also because it's close to the hut where I work as a cook and one weekend they decided to climb something new nearby.

The conglomerate outcrops offer numerous splendid lines and the spur they chose is particlarly beautiful. The climbers left a few pegs in-situ as well as a nut, those who wish to repeat the route will have to take a trad rack and some pegs to equip the belays.

The spur hosts two other routes established during the '50's but rarely repeated nowadays (Paltrineri - Del Nero, included in the guidebook CAI Bergamo Orobie: 88 immagini per arrampicare). Furthermore, close to Lake Piazzotti there are 30 bolted climbs graded IV - 6b (10 minutes from the hut), the classic Via Francesca up the Piazzotti bastion (250m, V+, 20 minutes from the hut) and of course the Denti della Vecchia peak with 12 bolted climbs graded 5a - 6b (45 minutes from the hut).All of these climb excellent quality conglomerate rock.

by Carlo Mazzoleni


TOPO: Ich liebe dich, Dente di Mezzaluna




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