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Ich liebe dich

First ascent: Cristian Candiotto, Fabrizio Guerra, Valentina Manni 08/06/2014
By: Planetmountain
Area: Bergamasque Alps and pre-Alps, Group: Alpi Orobie, Peak: Dente di Mezzaluna, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

The route is located on the lefthand side of the bastion that dominates Valtronella, Pizzo di Mezzaluna, in the Orobie Alps.

GETTING THERE

It can be reached easily from Pescegallo (1,30 hours) or from Rifugio Benigni (15 minutes from the hut to the base of the climb).

ACCESS

L'attacco è posto sul lato sinistro idrografico del canalino che scende dal rifugio Benigni nella valle di Tronella. In corrispondenza di una cengetta erbosa si traversa verso lo spigolo nord-est della bastionata, fino ad un basamento di mughi sotto una fessura lineare. In loco è presente un cordino in kevlar con maillon per assicurazione.

ROUTE

P1: Follow the crack and head to the overlaps, breach this and reach the belay. 30m, V/VI, 1 peg. + 1 peg at belay.
P2: Head towards the cracked overhang on the right, breach this directly and continue left towards a good belay. 30m, V/VI, 2 peg.
P3/4: Climb the weathered slab for 50m to reach the summit.. V then III, 1 wedged wire. A peg with heart has been placed to mark the end; don't use this as a belay!

DESCENT

Follow the crest south (grade II scramble, watch out for loose rock!) then continue down the path to Rifugio Benigni.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

V/VI

LENGTH

110m + 100 ridge

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