Home page Planetmountain.com
Supercanaleta Fitz Roy: Federico Martinelli on the upper section of the route, climbed with Michele Colturi and Federico Secchi (11/2018)
Photo by Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli, Federico Secchi
Federico Martinelli and Michele Colturi climbing Supercanaleta up Fitz Roy, Patagonia (11/2018)
Photo by Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli, Federico Secchi
Federico Martinelli, Federico Secchi and Michele Colturi on the summit of Fitz Roy in Patagonia after having climbed Supercanaleta (11/2018)
Photo by Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli, Federico Secchi
Supercanaleta up Fitz Roy in Patagonia, first climbed in 1965 by Carlos Comesaña and José Luis Fonrouge
Photo by Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli, Federico Secchi

Fitz Roy Supercanaleta climbed in Patagonia by Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli, Federico Secchi

di

From 25 - 28 November 2018 the Italian alpinists Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli and Federico Secchi repeated the famous Supercanaleta route up Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

On 21 November the aspirant mountain guides Guides Federico Secchi, Federico Martinelli and Michele Colturi departed from Italy for their first taste of Patagonia. After briefly checking the weather at Buenos Aires the trio realised that unexpected weather window was about to home in on the El Chalten region.

After a day of feverish search for information, they focused on the west face of Fitz Roy. The wall is crossed by the elegant line first ascended in 1965 by the Argentineans Carlos Comesaña and José Luis Fonrouge. In its 1600 meters this phenomenal climb embraces all styles (ice, mixed and rock) past difficulties up to 85°, V+). This is a true natural masterpiece that captures the attention of all mountaineers.

Having set off from El Chalten, they made the 6-hour approach and reached the base of the route where they spent in night in a tent on the glacier. A second team composed of two Argentinian guides and a client joined them shortly afterwards. The following day the set off at 2:00 am and immediately realised that conditions were extremely dry, forcing them to proceed slowly up the first part of the gully. The Argentines turned back after circa 1000m. At the end of first day, after about 19 hours of non-stop climbing, they reached an altitude of 3000m where they bivouacked.

The next morning they completed the last pitches across the traverse and up the finishing ramps, past very little snow to reach the 3400m high summit. After a few minutes of rest they quickly began the endless series of rappels to return to the base of the mountain. High temperatures made the descent particularly slow.

According to the team, this is only the second repeat of Supercanaleta this season. Conditions in Patagonia seem somewhat unusual, with unexpected heat waves and low rainfall. Ice on numerous mixed routes is almost non-existent or extremely dry, quite the opposite therefore to what it usually is like at this time of year.

To date, some of the main peaks of the group have been ascended (Aguja de l’S; Poincenot; Aguja Saint-Exupéry; Aguja Guillaumet) while the summit of Cerro Torre, which thwarted an Argentine and a French team, remains unclimbed so far. Colturi, Martinelli and Secchi will remain in Patagonia for about a month and a new window of good weather has been forecast for these upcoming days.

The team thanks Cai Valfurva

Federico Martinelli thanks : Scarpa, Level, Ferrino
Federico Secchi thanks Scarpa, Level, Ferrino
Michele Colturi thanks Mountain & Running Bormio

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Supercanaleta Fitz Roy, Patagonia
05.12.2011
Supercanaleta Fitz Roy, Patagonia
Some climbs seem timeless due to their importance in the history of alpinism. One of these is certainly Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia. The story by Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo, Marcello Sanguineti.
Fitz Roy climbed in a day by Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt
08.01.2016
Fitz Roy climbed in a day by Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt
American alpinists Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt have made an astoundingly fast ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, requiring just 21 hours and 8 minutes to climb the mountain via the Supercanaleta route and descend via the French route and return to the starting point.
Fitz Roy non stop: Simon Gietl and Gerhard Fiegl in Patagonia
05.03.2014
Fitz Roy non stop: Simon Gietl and Gerhard Fiegl in Patagonia
The report by Simon Gietl about his fast ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia via the Supercanaleta route together with Gerhard Fiegl.
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
08.01.2013
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of ascents including a fast repeat of Supercanaleta up Fitz Roy together with Andrea Di Donato.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra