Aconcagua south face: new route for Humar and Kozelj
At the end of December 2003 the Slovenians Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj climbed the south face of Aconcagua (6930 m) via a new route "Mobitel's Swallow - Johan's route" VI+(A2).
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| At the end of December 2003 the Slovenians Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj climbed the south face of Aconcagua (6930m) via a new route, dedicated to Janez Jeglic. As many may well remember, Jeglic died tragically on Nuptse in 1997 while climbing with Humar. "Mobitel's Swallow - Johan's route" was climbed in alpine style and encounters difficulties up to VI+ (A2) (IV - V+) with some overhanging ice and mixed sections graded M6. Humar and Kozelj left BC on 16 December and, 5 bivouacs and 2500m later, reached the summit on 22 December at 15.00. A rapid descent down the north face brought them to Plaza del Mulas at 20.30. The south face of Aconcagua is considered to be one of the hardest, most complex and interesting walls on the American continent: a 2500m high, 5 km wide granite and ice wall, first breached in 1954 by a French expedition led by René Ferlet. Aconcagua 6930m South Face Mobitel's Swallow - Johan's Route FA: Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj (12/2003) Length: 2500 m Grade: VI+(A2) (IV - V+) 90° - 100° (60°- 70°) M5 - M6 |
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