The routes

1167
Routes in archive
Le Droit Chemin
Climbing routes
Le Droit Chemin - Presles
TD+, 7b max
Rightly described as "sublime" in the guidebook. A pocketed technical slab gives way to a strenuous overhanging pitch, which can also be overcome in A0. The rock and atmosphere on this 8 pitch route in the Sector Paroi Rouge are...
Canada Dry
Climbing routes
Canada Dry - Presles
ED, 7a+
A sustained, strenuous 12 pitch outing up magnificent rock!
Vue de L’exterieur
Climbing routes
Vue de L’exterieur - Presles
ED-, 7a
An excellent, sustained masterpiece, considered to be one of the best at Presles. Located in the Sector Chrysanthemes, the first half of this six pitch route is technical and fingery, while the second airy and pumpy. Not to be missed.
Avec vue sur la mer
Climbing routes
Avec vue sur la mer - Presles
6a/A0
One of easiest routes on this wall (similar in grade to Voie d'Eliane) in the Sector les Buis. Excellent grey limestone, extremely well protected, at times vegetated.
Bim bam boum
Climbing routes
Bim bam boum - Presles
D, 5c
One of easiest routes on this wall (similar in grade to Voie d'Eliane) in the Sector les Buis. Excellent grey limestone, extremely well protected, at times vegetated.
En attendant Marlier
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
En attendant Marlier
5/III
Long and demanding icefall which usually has a drytooling start graded M7+. In 2009 a column of ice came into condition along the entire rock face, and the climb was therefore formed completely.
Missione compiuta
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Missione compiuta
5/II
Nice sustained drip which forms to the right of the Mission Impossibile cave
Alla ricerca del Nador
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Alla ricerca del Nador
4/II
Pleasant and short icefall which varies from a slab start to a free standing finish.
La valse à trois manches
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
La valse à trois manches
5/M5/II
Short-lived and varied icefall which rarely comes into condition. La valse à trois manches is the most obvious of the three drips and is characterised by a mixed section to exit behind the curtain.
La stangata
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
La stangata
III/5+
Climb the drip for circa 30m to where it changes angle. Belay in a niche to the left. Continue for a further 30m to reach the narrowest section of the icefall, where a belay is located with peg and bolt.
Alta tensione
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Alta tensione
II/5+
The route takes a line on the extreme righthand side of the drip. After a brief 7m vertical start follow a ramp right to the base of the vertical section. Climb another 5 or 6 meters and belay protected from...
Leben ist jetzt
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Leben ist jetzt
IV / M7+ / ice 80/90 degrees
The first pitch starts 10m to the left of the route "Pustertaler - Halbgefrohrenes". The pegs are clearly visible on this first section, and the first belay is shared with "Pustertaler - Halbgefrohrenes". The second pitch climbs left above the...
Per Leila
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Per Leila - Cima delle Cenge
III/6+
Beautiful icefall with a demanding first pitch which climbs a corner broken by a roof and hanging drip. The second pitch is somewhat easier and climbs a finishing hanging drip up a section of 95° ice.
The Prophet
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
The Prophet - Cima delle Cenge
III/5
Beautiful 20m drip, tends to be very slender at the base. Located to the left of Eros.
Eros
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Eros - Cima delle Cenge
II/4
Easy icefall with a series of easy 80° steps located to the right of The Prophet.
Mello's Moon
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Mello's Moon - Val di Mello
III/5+
Fun icefall which rarely comes into condition, marked by a thin drip which descends down the dark compact granite.


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