The routes

1157
Routes in archive
La prima volta
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
La prima volta
II 3+ M5+
Short and fun route. The first section is easy and fun, while the second is slightly more demandind and climbs a mixed section up a crimpy slab and poor rock.
Fosslimonster
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Fosslimonster
M8+, WI6+, E5
One of the most extraordinary and longest icefalls in the world. Calculate 12.5 hours to climb this route. The route was redpointed on 19 February after a 2 day attempt at the start of February by Robert Jasper and Markus...
Into the wild
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Into the wild
WI 6X, E5
One of the longest ice climbs in the world.
Attese disattese
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Attese disattese
I/5
Beautiful and slender free-standing drip first ascended after the first repeat of “Cohésion zero”. If the drip is too precarious, it is possible to protect the start using the plants on the side.
Super Stridente
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Super Stridente - Cima delle Cengie
IV/6
Super Stridente climbs the Tridente directly in a truly spectacular setting.
Le Droit Chemin
Climbing routes
Le Droit Chemin - Presles
TD+, 7b max
Rightly described as "sublime" in the guidebook. A pocketed technical slab gives way to a strenuous overhanging pitch, which can also be overcome in A0. The rock and atmosphere on this 8 pitch route in the Sector Paroi Rouge are...
Canada Dry
Climbing routes
Canada Dry - Presles
ED, 7a+
A sustained, strenuous 12 pitch outing up magnificent rock!
Vue de L’exterieur
Climbing routes
Vue de L’exterieur - Presles
ED-, 7a
An excellent, sustained masterpiece, considered to be one of the best at Presles. Located in the Sector Chrysanthemes, the first half of this six pitch route is technical and fingery, while the second airy and pumpy. Not to be missed.
Avec vue sur la mer
Climbing routes
Avec vue sur la mer - Presles
6a/A0
One of easiest routes on this wall (similar in grade to Voie d'Eliane) in the Sector les Buis. Excellent grey limestone, extremely well protected, at times vegetated.
Bim bam boum
Climbing routes
Bim bam boum - Presles
D, 5c
One of easiest routes on this wall (similar in grade to Voie d'Eliane) in the Sector les Buis. Excellent grey limestone, extremely well protected, at times vegetated.
En attendant Marlier
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
En attendant Marlier
5/III
Long and demanding icefall which usually has a drytooling start graded M7+. In 2009 a column of ice came into condition along the entire rock face, and the climb was therefore formed completely.
Missione compiuta
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Missione compiuta
5/II
Nice sustained drip which forms to the right of the Mission Impossibile cave
Alla ricerca del Nador
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Alla ricerca del Nador
4/II
Pleasant and short icefall which varies from a slab start to a free standing finish.
La valse à trois manches
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
La valse à trois manches
5/M5/II
Short-lived and varied icefall which rarely comes into condition. La valse à trois manches is the most obvious of the three drips and is characterised by a mixed section to exit behind the curtain.
La stangata
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
La stangata
III/5+
Climb the drip for circa 30m to where it changes angle. Belay in a niche to the left. Continue for a further 30m to reach the narrowest section of the icefall, where a belay is located with peg and bolt.


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