The routes

Few words are needed to describe one of the most beautiful and feared routes in Val di Mello. For those who love friction climbing, the black widow is a highly prized rock climb. A true Vitali valley masterpiece.

Oceano Irrazionale was first route to introduce the grade VII in the Central Alps. Irrational Ocean is a fantastic line up long vertical cracks and a prodigious traverse right, la "Tromba", to reach the suspended pulpit. Certainly one of the...

Great route up good rock, established by  B. De Franceschi and F. Vanzetta in 1978 (pegs and pressure bolts). It was rebolted recently in a combined effort first by R. Bernard and G. Bonanno, then by Luigi Trippa & Co....

Interesting route put up by local mountain guide Renato Bernard and Petra Bernard in 2005. despite being entirely equipped with bolts, the route requires alpine experience due to the quality of the rock and the run-out gear.

Exciting climb up excellent rock. The second half is vertical and exposed and ascends yellowish-black pocketed rock and the final two pitches, in particular, are extremely beautiful.  After a second difficult pitch, the difficulties tend to be in the 6b...

Fantastic multi-pitch sport climb established by the Swiss climbers Urs Odermatt and Peter Keller in May 2010. Just like their nearby Wings for Life, Wild Country promises to become an instant classic...

Volo di Pegasus is a beautiful route which climbs perfect rock and is marked by the incredible rock formations and tufas. First ascended on-sight from the ground-up by visiting Austrians Albert Leichtfried & Reinhard Ranner, the route climbs difficulties up...

Luna Nascente can rightly be considered a true pearl of the Alps, an absolutely fantastic route in Val di Mello. A beautiful perfect series of cracks and flakes on fantastic rock which has few equals in the rest of Europe....

Vento d’estate is a nice and interesting modern route with an alpine feel which takes a series of slabs and corners on the righthandside of the West face of Monte Gallo to reach Pizzo della Sella.Although the route isn't difficult...

Fantastic climbing up pumpy, overhanging cracks on stupendous granite. Acrobatic descent, clip some friends during the abseils to keep close to the rock face.

Serious alpine-style multi-pitch on the south face of Jebel Misht. The route starts circa 70m left of Flying pegs and the routes cross at the large ledge. Flying pegs follows the large corner left, while Fata Morgana continues directly up...

The setting for Gorillas im Nebel is awesome, wedged between the dark, mighty granite walls and the bizarre ice drips. A dreamline which, despite being mixed, has a high percentage of water ice.

Nice logical mixed line with delicate ice, first ascended with trad pro only. The route takes a line up the to the left of Zero 70, first ascended on 15/01/2010 by Giampiero Bertotti, Stefano dalla Gasperina, Enrico Bonino and Sofia...

Fascinating drip wedged into a narrow gully, located 80m to the right of Cascata Superbowl with which it shares the first pitch. The climb is dedicated to Camillo Zorzi from Cogollo del Cengio, a hunter from the Vicenza pre-Alps who...

Beautiful icefall located close to Lochere close to Lake Caldonazzo in the Valsugana, right at the start of the narrow Val Scura. This drip rarely, if ever, comes into contiona and since it's situated at a low altitude it offers...

The icefall is located in a gully just above Gressoney St. Jean, hidden up to today (perhaps) from indiscreet glances. Each of the three pitches of Wait and Bleed differ significantly from each other but each are particular and striking.