The routes

Technically difficult and psychologically demanding route up excellent rock on a face which is relatively easy to reach but far removed from the more popular climbing destinations.

Nice and demanding climb, predominantly up cracks, to the left of Umbras. The route reaches the final belay of Umbras and ends here.

Beautiful route which offers technical and pumpy climbing up good to excellent rock. In 2009 the two mountain guides Alberto De Giuli and Renato Bernard re-equipped the routes with bolts, at times run-out, while the third pitch now ascends direct...

Stupendous combination of two existing routes which had fallen into disuse, probably due to the state of the original pro. The first half climbs technical slabs, the second is more athletic up excellent rock. Re-equipped in summer 2009, the route...

If you like slab routes where the angle is almost easy enough to walk up with great friction then this route is awesome. But with the padding up easy angle slabs come the run outs! There are plenty of moments...

Snake is another classic route on the south Apron. It is five pitches long the first of which is 55m so a 60m rope is a must. It is worth noting that this route can stay wet after rain for...

Diedre is an outstanding route. Every pitch is a delight, hence its popularity. It is six pitches long and all the belays are bolted. A 60m rope is needed but if you had two this would give you an abseil...

One of the most beautiful slab routes in the entire Val di Mello, even if the long run-outs put off numerous parties. Recently rebolted. Excellent rock. The third pitch is slightly exposed.

Few words are needed to describe one of the most beautiful and feared routes in Val di Mello. For those who love friction climbing, the black widow is a highly prized rock climb. A true Vitali valley masterpiece.

Oceano Irrazionale was first route to introduce the grade VII in the Central Alps. Irrational Ocean is a fantastic line up long vertical cracks and a prodigious traverse right, la "Tromba", to reach the suspended pulpit. Certainly one of the...

Great route up good rock, established by  B. De Franceschi and F. Vanzetta in 1978 (pegs and pressure bolts). It was rebolted recently in a combined effort first by R. Bernard and G. Bonanno, then by Luigi Trippa & Co....

Interesting route put up by local mountain guide Renato Bernard and Petra Bernard in 2005. despite being entirely equipped with bolts, the route requires alpine experience due to the quality of the rock and the run-out gear.

Exciting climb up excellent rock. The second half is vertical and exposed and ascends yellowish-black pocketed rock and the final two pitches, in particular, are extremely beautiful.  After a second difficult pitch, the difficulties tend to be in the 6b...

Fantastic multi-pitch sport climb established by the Swiss climbers Urs Odermatt and Peter Keller in May 2010. Just like their nearby Wings for Life, Wild Country promises to become an instant classic...

Volo di Pegasus is a beautiful route which climbs perfect rock and is marked by the incredible rock formations and tufas. First ascended on-sight from the ground-up by visiting Austrians Albert Leichtfried & Reinhard Ranner, the route climbs difficulties up...

Luna Nascente can rightly be considered a true pearl of the Alps, an absolutely fantastic route in Val di Mello. A beautiful perfect series of cracks and flakes on fantastic rock which has few equals in the rest of Europe....