The routes

The 30-year-old and his girlfriend established the route over two weekends, chosing a line close (circa 10m) to "Aspettando la vetta", the route established by Massimo Da Pozzo and Giammario Meneghin in 2004. The new line crosses Aspettando on the...

Interesting and fun drip at the start of Val Grande in a quiet setting. Although the route was climbed in two pitches, we suggest the second pitch is split into two.

Il tempo sospeso is an interesting climb on the south face of Furcia Rossa III, between the routes Hinterm Horizont (Hubert Eisendle, Simon Kehrer 2021/22) and Princess Soreghina (Hubert Eisendle, Simon Kehrer). During the first ascent of Suspended Time cams and 6 pegs were used for protection the pitches, while the...

Another fun and nice da Pozzo route up the Primo Spigolo of the Tofana di Rozes. First ascended together with Natasha Alexander in July 2006, from the large ledge at circa 100-150m beneath the summit it shares the final two...

On 24 January 2006 Albert Leichtfried made the first ascent of "Illuminati", a 5 pitch mixed outing located in Val Lunga, close to Selva Gardena, N. Italy. The 30 year old Austrian has put forward the impressive grade M11+/WI 6+.Leichtfried...

Beautiful route on solid rock up the left-hand side of the face. The 2nd and 5th pitches are outstanding.

The route Inshallah climbs a steep face on the main peak in the Corna Rossa subgroup. This is a modern climb which is protected with trad gear where feasible, and bolts on the more compact sections. It features bolted belays and generally excellent...

Beautiful modern mixed route on Torre Murfrëit close to Passo Gardena in the Sella group, established by Santiago Padrós and Giovanni Andriano over two days, on 17 and 19 December 2019. According to Padròs this is one of the most...

Modern bolt and peg route to the left of Via Comici. The upper section is loose and less protected, most climbers therefore descend at half-height.

In July 2004 Mauro Bubu Bole frees one of the most eyed-up overhangs in the Dolomites, the mythical Italia ’61. The route was first climbed over 40 years ago by Bepi De Francesch, Quinto Romanin, Emiliano Vuerich and Cesare Franceschetti,...

The route climbs the center of the wall through the imposing overhangs. Aid was used on the first ascent, but nowadays it goes free at 7b. Either follow the original line in the upper section or, recommended, climb up the...

Jeo is the latest modern sport climb to be established up the East Face of Col de Stagn, after the hugely popular Eva Dorme (6b+ max) and its easier neighbour Ludomania (6a max). Of the three routes currently on this face,...

Kalipe is a sustained mixed climb up the North Face of Peitlerkofel with a crux pitch that is difficult to protect. Five pitons were placed, only at the belays.

Opened in 1948, Via Kastlunger-Bottaro is the first route on the sunny south face of Neunerplatta, aka Sasso delle Nove. It follows a logical line to the top via a series of slabs, ledges and cracks, almost always protectable, offering...

Kindergarten is a modern route that requires skillful placing of trad gear, with bolts on only the most compact sections. All threads have been left in-situ, and the belays feature two 10mm bolts each (except the first, which has a bolt...

L Pilaster Desmincià, the forgotten pillar, climbs the NW Face of Sass Rigais. Although the rock is rather loose on the lower and upper section, the central part of the route contains rock that is 'pure joy.'