Kastlunger - Bottaro - Neunerspitze - Sasso delle Nove - Piza dales Nü
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Pietro Bottaro
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archivio Pietro Bottaro
Opened in 1948, Via Kastlunger-Bottaro is the first route on the sunny south face of Neunerplatta, aka Sasso delle Nove. It follows a logical line to the top via a series of slabs, ledges and cracks, almost always protectable, offering truly splendid and highly enjoyable climbing with difficulties up to VI/VI+.
Over the years it slowly fell into disuse, surviving almost only in a few postcards, and it was also for this reason that in June 2026, together with Philipp Mutschlechner, it was restored: bolts were added to al belays except for one, which is prtected by two good pegs and can be backed up easily.
From San Vigilio di Marebbe, follow the road towards Rifugio Pederü, where you can park.
AccessFrom here, follow the path leading to Rifugio Lavarella (on foot 1.5–2 hours, by e‑bike 30–40 minutes). From there, continue on foot for another 1.5 hours to the start: from Rifugio Lavarella, follow trail no. 7 to the plateau, where you follow tracks leading towards the obvious wall. The route starts below a large slab that forms an diagonal crack towards the right.
ItinerarySee topo
DescentOn foot down the normal route
Gear1 set of cams and nuts; belays are bolted. 1 single 60m rope. The route remains traditional, meaning little to no fixed protection on the wall, except for 2–4 original pegs which are still in good condition!
NotesThe belays were bolted on 27 June 2026 by Pietro Bottaro and Philipp Mutschlechner.
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