The routes

Climbing routes

15
Routes in archive
Ben Hur perfer et obdura
Ben Hur perfer et obdura - Wendenstöcke
7c+
Located high up in the Excalibur sector, the overhanging Ben Hur was established in 1997 by Swiss climbers Mike Schwitter and Andy Maag with long run-outs and few bolts. 12 years after the ascent and with no...
Cani Sciolti
Cani Sciolti - Parete di Solada
still to be defined, VIII/A1
Parete di Solada is a beautiful face which contains just one other climb, on the left, called Il teorema di Solà, put up by Glauco Cugini and Christian Ferrari in 2001. Cani sciolti follows a logical line past the points...
El Gordo
El Gordo - Reissend Nollen
6c/7a
Climbed ground-up and onsight over two days by Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach who breached difficulties somewhere in the region of 6c/7a using only trad gear and pegs to protect the circa 450m line. "A long term dream of mine has...
Freudenschreck
Freudenschreck - Schreckhorn
6a+
Outstanding rock climb up the Schreckhorn in a high alpine setting that provides an exceptional climbing experience in the Bernese Alps. The arête ascends the obvious pillar on the shoulder of the SW Ridge. From the shoulder the Schreckhorn summit...
Gli svizzeri di qua
Gli svizzeri di qua - Parete Mora
7b
Short modern sports route up excellent weathered limestone, past runnels and small pockets. Established ground-up over two days, the route offers technical climbing through an overhang on pitch 1, followed by technical slab climbing on the remaining pitches. The 10mm bolts...
Il Mito della Caverna
Il Mito della Caverna - Gendarme di Gramüsèd
8a
The Gramused gendarme is one of the gems in the narrow Bavona valley in Switzerland, and recently a difficult multi-pitch route has been added to it, "Il mito della Caverna". The route climbs up the central part of the face,...
La Röschtigraben
La Röschtigraben - Reissend Nollen
8a+
Established in 2011 ground-up during 12 days, the route takes a 700m line just to the left of Via Italia on Reissend Nollen and ascends "perfect limestone".
Leap of Faith
Leap of Faith - Poncione d'Alnasca
8a+/b
Leap of Faith takes a line on the lefthand side of the granite Poncione d’Alnasca pyramid above Valle Verzasca in Switzerland and was established ground-up by Matteo Della Bordella, Davide Bacci and Luca Auguadri between 2015 and 2016. Protected...
Mutandenbaum
Mutandenbaum - Parete Mora
6c+
Short alpine outing up excellent weathered limestene past runnels and small pockets. Technical, smooth slab climbing.
Saga di Valle Bavona
Saga di Valle Bavona - Gendarm de Gramüsèd
8a+
205m high climb established by Stephan Isensee and Thomas Wolf up Gendarm de Gramüsèd, to the left of Il mito della Caverna with difficulties in the region of 7c+/8a.
Silbergeier
Silbergeier - IV Kirchlispitze
8b/8b+
Silbergeier is a fantastic route in a marvellous position. The route is perfectly vertical and offers super technical face climbing on small edges and microscopic footholds. The moves are hard to decipher, especially the first time on the route which...
Stiller-Has
Stiller-Has - Gstellihorn
7c+/8a
Not extremely difficult gradewise, but with many obligatory crux sections. Definitely an interesting route for ambitious alpinists who like to climb in remote places.
Transocean
Transocean - Pfaffenhut
7b+
Transocean is a beautiful route up compact limestone, first ascended from the ground-up in the summers 2007 and 2010 and although equipped with bolts it needs camming devices for additional protection. Very technical slab climbing, the line was freed by...
Velocità Limitata
Velocità Limitata - Sulzfluh
8a
Velocità Limitata is an interesting route which climbs good rock. The first section is more technical up a series of slabs via balancy climbing and few holds, typical for this area. In the upper section the holds become more generous...
Wilde Has
Wilde Has - Gstellihorn
7b, expo
Not extremely difficult gradewise, but with many obligatory crux sections. Definitely an interesting route for ambitious alpinists who like to climb in remote places.


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