The routes

4 pitch aid climb up Pinnacolo di Maslana. Probably the first modern aid climb in the valleys above Bergamo in Northern Italy.

The route is located on the lefthand side of the bastion that dominates Valtronella, Pizzo di Mezzaluna, in the Orobie Alps.

Maleficent tackles the the central section of the NW Face, climbing the compact slabs using a more modern approach than the older routes. It was climbed ground-up with a mix of pegs and a few bolts placed where rests were...

Stairway to Heaven was established with 10mm bolts, meaning that 8 quickdraws, a single rope and cordlette are all you need to repeat it. All the belay stations are equipped with maillon rapide for the abseils, but you’ll need to...

The result is a quality climb, requiring good technique and footwork up the slightly overhanging face.

The first rock climb on this face

Via dei Cugini was established by Nadia, Enzo, and Ivan Tiraboschi in the summer of 1990 on the north-west face of Pizzo Arera in the Orobic Prealps. The route has been fully re-equipped for alpine sport climbing, with bolts along...