The routesClimbing routes

Fatta e rifatta - Gusela 



7c
Another excellent bolt route up the exposed buttress. The route partially follows an old aid-route. The climbing is very similar to that on the other routes nearby: sustained and technical.

C’est plus facile - Gusela 



8a
This difficult route rises up a characteristic overhanging yellow wall, clearly visible from the Passo Giau. The climbing is highly technical and sustained, with hard sections that, apart from the 8a crux pitch (or A0/A1), cannot be aided.

Varuk - Gusela 



7c+
Slightly overhanging face climbing, both sustained and technical. The route follows the obvious arête on the left-hand side of the wall. Although bolt protected, these were placed on lead; run-outs are not uncommon. The rock is practically devoid of natural...

Pia - Gusela 



6+
This short route is significantly harder than Dallago and rises up the large pillar that characterises the wall, tackling the most compact and best rock. From the top of the pillar it shares the same finish as Dallago, but alternatively...

Dallago - Gusela 



4/5
An easy and accessible route up a series of ledges on solid rock with plenty of holds and threads. The route takes a line up the large pillar in the middle of the Southwest Face, from which the summit can...

Primo Spigolo (Alverà-Pompanin) - Tofana di Rozes 



5
An extremely popular mid-grade route. It initially follows the large corner at the base of the arête, then continues up slightly to the left of the arête, before moving right to avoid the roofs. This traverse and corner above constitute...

Leviti - Tofana di Rozes 



7-
A nice, unknown and never before published route up good rock. It is similar in grade to Costantini Ghedina, whose finish it shares. The final three pitches, and in particular the short pitch above the ledge, are the hardest.

Costantini - Apollonio - Tofana di Rozes 



7
This is surely the most famous and popular route on this wall, thanks to its intrinsic beauty and perfect line. It is long and demanding, and initially climbs the crack line up the grey rock to the first ledge. From...

Spigolo Costantini - Ghedina - Tofana di Rozes 



6-
A relatively easy and popular climb (UIAA 4 and 5, one 6- crux) up the left-hand arête of the Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes. The three hard pitches traverse leftwards past two large yellow roofs at half height. Paradoxically, the...

Compagni di merenda - Tofana di Rozes 



7b
A demanding route up the left-hand side of the pillar. The compact and featured rock is one of the best to be found on the Tofana. The fourth and fifth pitches are the hardest, but the rest of the route...

Super Toio - Punta Giovannina 



7a+
Bolted on lead, this route follows the black streaks up through the overhangs above the rifugio Giussani. The initial section is friable but this improves as height is gained.

Spigolo Sud - Col dei Bos 



5
This long route takes the arête on the extreme right-hand side of the Col dei Bos, and is never harder than 4/5. It is renowned for its beauty and excellent rock, and it too can be climbed early and late...

Ada - Col dei Bos 



4, 4+, 5
Ada is a long and well-protected route that can be climbed from the beginning of summer to late autumn. It takes a line up the second tower from the left on the Col dei Bos. Most of the climbing...

Spada di Damocle - Lagazuoi nord 



6c+
This modern and demanding route follows the large black streaks up through the overhangs, crossing via del Drago at half height where this traverses leftwards above the roofs. The climbing, in particular the second pitch, is pumpy and sustained. Some...

Via del Drago - Lagazuoi Nord 



6-
This route winds its way through the easiest sections of the overhanging West Face of Lagazuoi Nord. At half height it traverses leftwards above the roofs along the lowest ledges (be careful not to traverse along the higher ledges). Its...

Lacedelli - Cima Scotoni 



VIII-
This is one of the classic outings in the Dolomites. Great intuition enabled the first ascentionists to work their way up this immense overhanging wall. The second crux pitch, when finally freed, was a reference mark for things to come....
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