The routesClimbing routes

Le dos de l'elephant - Punta U Corbu 



6c max
Grandiose rock face and beautiful slab route, demanding and exposed despite being reequipped. Some sections climb 5c/6a ground 6m above the last bolt. The complicated approach and length of the route make this an outing which should not be underestimated.

JPQ - Punta di l’Accellu 



7a max
This isn't the easiest route up the wall but definitely the most classic, tamed by the bolts placed by the first ascentionist – at times the gear is somewhat irrational. The climbing is varied up perfect rock. The original grades...

Democratia - Punta di U Diamante 



6c max
Dèmocratia is a splendid granite route, reminiscent of many alpine outings. Demanding slabs alternate with a difficult central pitch up small crystal knobs. The bolting is excellent and never excessive, while the granite itself is also clean of vegetation. The...

Vinatzer - Third Sella Tower 



V+
Classic route, one of the most popular in the Dolomites. It follows a line of thin cracks up the west face of the third Torre del Sella. The crux leads to a roof above the large ledge at half-height and...

Demetz - Second Sella Tower 



V
One of the great classic and most recommended routes on the Sella. The first section climbs the west face and leads leftwards to the exposed NW arête to continue up this to the summit. The short corner crux leads onto...

Les Intouchables - Trident du Tacul 



ABO-, 7c+ max
Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent. The "truly strong" can climb the...

Elixier d’Astaroth - Grand Capucin 



ED+, 7a+ max, A2
This is the most direct line up the vertical wall, the exposure is total and the climbing, apart from a small section half-way up the aid pitch, is always pumpy and sustained. Not all belays have in-situ gear, but the...

Voyage selon Gulliver - Grand Capucin 



ED, 7a+ max
A true journey that winds its way up a sea of granite. Without a doubt the most popular and sought-after modern route on the Grand Capucin. The climbing is technical and athletic. Being good at placing natural pro is a...

Gervasutti - Pic Adolphe Rey 



TD+, 6a+ max
Rudimentary climbing up extremely tiring corners, laybacks and jams…

Bettembourg - Thivierge - Pic Adolphe Rey 



TD+, 6b max
Splendid route up fantastic red granite. Perhaps the best route of its kind on the satellite.

Salluard - Pic Adolphe Rey 



TD-, 5+ max
Highly satisfying climbing that follows a logical line close to the arête.

Via Decima - Pala delle Masenade 



V+
Via Decima (also referred to as Colatoio nero, black streak) follows a beautiful grey corner and then continues up the long black steak, solid and full of holds. The climbing is fun, varied and often airy, but always offers good...

Spitagoras - Rienzwand 



5+ (6a)
This new bolt route is sustained but never particularly difficult on Rienzwand. These two characteristics, combined with its setting and excellent rock, ensure that Spitagoras will become very popular.

Via Cassin - Cima Piccolissima di Lavaredo 



7-
The short overhanging yellow wall of the Cima Piccolissima is breached by the demanding Via Cassin. All loose holds on this stratified dolomite have been cleaned. The route faces SE and is therefore climbable before and after summer.

Spigolo Giallo - Cima Piccola di Lavaredo 



VI+
Every year hundreds of climbers flock to the Spigolo Giallo. Few routes have such a perfect line, and few routes get quite so crowded. It is best climbed out of season and preferably avoided at the weekends. The difficult sections...

Via Dülfer - Cima Grande di Lavaredo 



5+
The cold West Face hosts the via Dülfer, a direct and elegant line, somewhat less popular than the other routes. It is relatively short, considering that it is on the Cima Grande, and is solid UIAA 6 with some slightly...
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