The routes

This is the most direct line up the vertical wall, the exposure is total and the climbing, apart from a small section half-way up the aid pitch, is always pumpy and sustained. Not all belays have in-situ gear, but the...

A true journey that winds its way up a sea of granite. Without a doubt the most popular and sought-after modern route on the Grand Capucin. The climbing is technical and athletic. Being good at placing natural pro is a...

Rudimentary climbing up extremely tiring corners, laybacks and jams…

Splendid route up fantastic red granite. Perhaps the best route of its kind on the satellite.

Highly satisfying climbing that follows a logical line close to the arête.

Via Decima (also referred to as Colatoio nero, black streak) follows a beautiful grey corner and then continues up the long black steak, solid and full of holds. The climbing is fun, varied and often airy, but always offers good...

This new bolt route is sustained but never particularly difficult. These two characteristics, combined with its setting and excellent rock, ensure that Spitagoras will become very popular.

The short overhanging yellow wall of the Cima Piccolissima is breached by the demanding Via Cassin. All loose holds on this stratified dolomite have been cleaned. The route faces SE and is therefore climbable before and after summer.

Every year hundreds of climbers flock to the Spigolo Giallo. Few routes have such a perfect line, and few routes get quite so crowded. It is best climbed out of season and preferably avoided at the weekends. The difficult sections...

The cold West Face hosts the via Dülfer, a direct and elegant line, somewhat less popular than the other routes. It is relatively short, considering that it is on the Cima Grande, and is solid UIAA 6 with some slightly...

Via Comici Dimai is the classic example of rock climbing in the Dolomites. Although difficult if climbed without using aid, its popularity is justified by its beauty and excellent rock. English topo in pdf download.

An important old aid-route that takes a direct line up the North Face of the Cima Grande. Regardless of the style of ascent, the route, due to its 18 pitches, is very tiring and thus requires a certain level of...

Even though this is the easiest route described in this chapter, it is without a doubt one of the nicest. Fixed protection is lacking so bring wires and possibly even pegs and a hammer. The start and first two pitches...

One of the original lines up the face, this nice route zigzags up through the easiest vertical sections to the right of the large corner (Los Angeles). All belays are equipped with bolts or pegs.

This route follows the large corner up the middle of the wall to the large roofs at half height. From here it continues leftwards, shares a belay with Thriller and Balbic and continues up slabs and cracks between the two....

This is one of the newest routes, with the bolts and pegs placed on lead. The hardest sections are to be found in the first half, where the route follows a line between the large corner (Los Angeles) and Thriller,...