Hasse Brandler - Cima Grande di Lavaredo

The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo.

Approach via Hasse by following the path from the rifugio di Lavaredo to the Forcella Lavaredo. Continue on a small track which traverses left underneath the base of the North Faces. The route starts on the right-hand side of the face, close to the pedestal of Via Comici. Route-finding skills are extremely important on the first two pitches, especially since a fast early morning start is essential! The original start tackles a smooth slab close to a crack-lined pillar. The top of this can otherwise be reached easily by starting slightly further to the right. Then follow a leftwards rising traverse line (loose) to a small roof (nut and bolt belay). And then from here on upwards!

Via the normal route on the South Face. After the final pitch walk leftwards along a large ledge to the cairns that mark the normal route. Abseil down the chimney using two 50m ropes and continue by downclimbing until the scree below is reached. Follow the cairn markers leftwards, until a short abseil leads close to a saddle. Reach the saddle (Southeast Face) and steep, east facing gully; this can abseiled or downclimbed (UIAA 2). The final leap can be avoided by traversing leftwards along the ledge and reaching the gully that separates the Cima Grande from the Cima Piccola.

Take a full set of wires, some medium-size friends, slings and plenty of quickdraws.