DNA - Croda degli Alpini / Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
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Simon Giet, Mountain Guide
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Planetmountain
DNA climbs the south face of Croda degli Alpini, the sunny foresummit of Cima Ovest in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites. Seven long pitches with difficulties up to VII+ led them to the top of Croda degli Alpini, from where they descended via the mountain’s Normal Route. All pegs placed at the belays were left in-situ, while they protected the climbing on the pitches with wires, cams and threads only. DNA is a pretty nice route, ideal for those who already have plenty of experience climbing alpine multi-pitches
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo.
From the highest car park above Rifugio Auronzo follow the path that leads up the normal route of Cima Ovest. After walking along the base of il Mulo scramble up the scree slope to reach the base of the route.
DescentDescend on foot down the normal route.
GearFull rack, wires, cams, pegs + hammer
NotesDNA was climbed onsight and in just a single day. Loose rock at times. Do not climb in high season when there are many people on the path below.
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