Petri Heil - Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
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Hannes Pfeifhofer
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Hannes Pfeifhofer, Dietmar Niederbrunner
Petri Heil is a beautiful rock climb up excellent rock in an amazing setting. The route climbs close to the famous Demuthkante up the lefthand side of the North Face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo.
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo. These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo.
AccessFrom Rifugio Auronzo take path no.105 to Col di Mezzo and continue to the North Face. Follow the track across the scree to the base of the arête. Petri Heil starts to the right of Demuthkante.
ItineraryP1: 6b, 30 m
P2: 5-, 20 m
P3: 4+, 15 m
P4: 6c+, 32 m
P5: 6a+, 25 m
P6: 6a, 20 m
P7: 5+, 25 m
P8: 4, 40 m
P9: 4+, 46 m
P10: 6a+, 45 m
P11: 5, 32 m
P12: 6a+, 22 m
P13: 6b, 24m
P14: 5-, 35 m
P15: 5+, 25 m
P16: 6a, 40 m
P17: 5+, 45 m
P18: 6a+, 35 m
P19: 6b, 36 m
Descend down the normal route.
Gear15 quickdraws, mid-sized Friends: Camelot #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #1, 2 x 50m half ropes
NotesThe route is portected with normal pegs and bolts. Although it is possible to abseil down the route, this is very difficult. On the crux pitch you need to usa a different belay for the absile. WARNING: abseil directly down the fallline, overhanging, do a pendulm!
WARNING: In rainstorm the first 7 pitches become wet immediately as they act as a runoff. Normally they dry out 1 day after rain.
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