The trailer of the film that documents Melissa Le Nevé making the first female ascent of Action Directe, the world’s most revered 9a put up by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura
Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece
French climber Melissa Le Nevé has made the first female ascent of Action Directe, the masterpiece established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991. This milestone 9a is one of the most famous and coveted sport climbs in the world.
The video of the first free ascent of Eternal Flame, the legendary rock climb on Nameless Tower, in the Trango group, Karakorum. Established by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora, the first redpoint was carried out from 11 - 14 August 2009 by Thomas and Alexander Huber.
Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of Action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays just two decades ago, the route is considered one of the most famous and coveted sport climbs in the world.
Stefan Scarperi from the South Tyrol, Italy, has repeated Bügeleisen sit, the 8C boulder problem in Maltatal, Austria, established in 2014 by Nalle Hukkataival.
42-year-old Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of La Nave de los Locos on the island of Mallorca in Spain. With this ascent he celebrates 20 years of 9a climbing, after sending his first in 2000, Action Directe freed by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Dreamtime at Cresciano in Switzerland. Established in 2000 by Fred Nicole, this was the first boulder problem in the world to be graded 8C.
The film Rotpunkt featuring Alexander Megos; a portrait of the German climber and a look into the history of free climbing including the likes of Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich.
Climbing alone and ground-up, last spring German alpinist Alexander Huber made the first ascent of Mauerläufer (200m, 8b+) up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
French climber Mélissa Le Nevé has repeated Golden Ticket, an 8c+ sports climb at Red River Gorge, USA.
On 2 November 2018 Stefan Scarperi repeated Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura. He is the third Italian to repeat the legendary route established by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 after Gabriele Moroni and Stefano Carnati.
The video by Stefano Carnati climbing Action Directe, the famous 9a first ascended by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 in Frankenjura, Germany.
12 years ago Austrian climber and photographer Heinz Zak made the second free solo of Separate Reality, one of the most famous rock climbs in Yosemite Valley, USA. The film of this audacious ascent, which followed that of Wolfgang Güllich in 1986, is called 'Träume sterben nie', Dreams never die.
Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.
Action Directe was established by Wolfgang Güllich on 14 September 1991 at Waldkopf in Germany's Frankenjura. The route set new new standards in sport climbing and now, precisely twenty-five years after the first ascent, Planetmountain.com takes a step back in time to discover more about one of the most famous sport climbs in the world and the man who made it happen.
Laura Rogora has climbed Wallstreet, the historic world’s first 8c freed in 1987 by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura.
18 year-old Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Action Directe, the legendary 9a sport climb established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991.
On 14/05/2015 Felix Neumärker repeated To tu jeste nebydlo 9a at Labak in the Czech Republic. Two days later he repeated Action Direct, the 9a first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura.
Interview with French climber Melissa Le Nevé after the first female ascent of Wallstreet, the 8c first climbed in 1987 by Wolfgang Güllich in Frankenjura, Germany.
On 8/05/2014 French climber Melissa Le Nevé repeated Wallstreet, reputed to be the world's first 8c and first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1987 in the Frankenjura, Germany.