On 24/02/2021 the Italian mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of Il Regalo di Berna, a new route on the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses dedicated to Matteo Bernasconi. Della Bordella reports.
Watch, this evening only, the film Cavalli Bardati, which documents the first ascent of the west face of Bhagirathi IV (6193m) in the Indian Himalaya carried out by Ragni di Lecco mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo in September 2019,
Paolo Marazzi and Giacomo Regallo made the first free ascent of Diretta dei Cecoslovacchi, the Czech Direct, on Punta Ferrario (3258m) in Val Torrone - Val Masino, Italy.
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, from 11 to 22 September 2020.
On 12 May 2020 Matteo Bernasconi, the talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and member of the Ragni di Lecco climbing club, perished in an avalanche. Born in 1982 and loved by everyone, Berna was ski mountaineering in Valtellina when the accident occurred.
On the north face of the Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia the Italian alpinists Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and Matteo Pasquetto have established Il dado è tratto. The new route provides 'spectacular' climbing. Della Bordella reports directly from El Chalten.
Italian mountaineer Matteo Della Bordella provides the details about the successful climbing expedition to the Garhwal Himalaya in India where with Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo he made the first ascent of the coveted west face of Bhagirathi IV (6193m). And miraculously escaped scary rockfall a few days earlier.
The Italian Ragni di Lecco mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo have succeeded in climbing the virgin west face of Bhagirathi IV (6193m) in the Indian Himalayas. A great adventure and a great climb!
Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall
A group of Italian mountaineers comprised of Matteo della Bordella, Maurizio Giordani, Massimo Faletti and David Hall are about to embark on a one-month expedition to explore unchartered mountains in Pakistan.
After months of controversy concerning a planned expansion in Val di Mello, Italy, of an existing path that would make it accessible to wheelchairs and the disabled, an agreement has now been reached to protect the pristine valley. The peaceful protest scheduled for Saturday 18th May has therefore be transformed into a celebration for all.
Tragedy in Patagonia: last week a Czech mountaineer died on Fitz Roy and two Brazilian mountaineers have gone missing. A 19-man rescue attempt was launched including Italian mountaineers Claudio Migliorini, Luca Schiera, Edoardo Albrighi, Jacopo Zezza, Giampaolo Calzà, Paolo Marazzi, Dimitri Anghileri, two Spanish climbers, two Argentinians and Denis Urubko. Migliorini reports about the rescue attempt the set off at 10pm on 21 January 2019 and was coordinated by Carolina Codò.
In Patagonia the two Ragni di Lecco alpinists Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera have made the first ascent of Cerro Mangiafuoco. The new route is called L'appel du vide (6c M4 400m).
Maurizio Oviglia reports about an expedition of the Italian Alpine Club and the JTB (Jordan Tourism Board) which resulted in series of new climbs in the unexplored area of Wadi Sulam in Jordan. Expedition members included Maurizio Giordani, Manrico Dell'Agnola, Andrea Cattarossi, Marco Scagnetto, Luca Schiera, Umberto Del Vecchio, Erik Lazarus, Gianluca Cavalli, Marcello Sanguineti, Angelo Taddei, Alberto Rampini and Lorella Franceschini.
On July 14, 2018 Selva di Val Gardena will host the fifth edition of the Karl Unterkircher Award in memory of the South Tyrolean alpinist who died ten years ago on Nanga Parbat. The alpinists nominated for the 2018 award are Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon for the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, Ines Papert and Luka Lindič for their new route up Kyzyl Asker in Kyrgyzstan (China), and Simon Gietl and Marcel Schenk for the new mixed climb up Pizzo Badile in Switzerland. Special guest: Kurt Diemberger
Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach have forged a new route up Cerro Riso Patron in Patagonia.
On the NW Face of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera established Maracaibo, a new rock climb 300 meters high graded 7a/C1.
Simone Pedeferri and Luca Schiera have established ‘L’Olandese Volante’, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Precipizio degli Asteroidi in Val di Mello, Italy.
On 22/05/2017 Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini repeated King of the Bongo, the route first climbed in 2014 by the Ragni di Lecco climbers Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera.
On 15 and 16 March 2017 Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi made the first ascent of Produci consuma crepa, a new 900m rock climb with difficulties up to 6c A2, on the NE Face of Cerro Mariposa, Rio Turbio valley, Patagonia. Luca Schiera reports
On 15 and 16 March 2017 the two Italian Ragni di Lecco alpinists Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi established a new route up Cerro Mariposa in Patagonia.