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After the Santner Refuge scandal, South Tyrol approves new law to prevent sale of public lands in mountainous areas
18/03/2025 - Environment
After the Santner Refuge scandal, South Tyrol approves new law to prevent sale of public lands in mountainous areas
The Provincial Council of Bolzano in the South Tyrol, Italy, has unanimously approved a bill to modify the management of inalienable heritage in mountainous areas of historical, cultural, or landscape value above an altitude of 1,600 meters. The opinion of...
Rysy 'Direttissima' in High Tatras climbed free by Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel, Tomek Klimcza
14/02/2025 - Alpinism
Rysy 'Direttissima' in High Tatras climbed free by Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel, Tomek Klimcza
From 8-10 February 2025, the team of Polish climbers consisting of Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel and Tomek Klimczak made the first free ascent of the classic 'Direttissima' on the east face of Rysy in the High Tatras, Slovakia. The 13-pitch,...
Robert Jasper receives 'Primus Inter Pares' award from Polish Mountaineering Association
28/01/2025 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper receives 'Primus Inter Pares' award from Polish Mountaineering Association
German alpinist Robert Jasper has been awarded the 'Primus Inter Pares 2024' prize from the Polski Związek Alpinizmu, the Polish alpine club. This award recognises his extraordinary life's work and his pioneering first ascents in the field of alpinism
US Congress passes Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act
20/12/2024 - Climbing
US Congress passes Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act
In what is being hailed as a momentous decision for climbing policy, US Congress has passed the Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act. Furthermore, the National Park Service has withdrawn its proposal to prohibit fixed anchors such as slings, pins, and...
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
01/10/2024 - Climbing
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
A Scottish-Slovak team comprised of Callum Johnson, Tim Miller, Simon Smith and Miška Izakovičová recently returned from a highly successful climbing expedition to the Torsukattak Fjord in southern Greenland where they established multiple new climbs, including 'Mussels for Tea, Packrafts...
Canzio Bivouac on Grandes Jorasses & Borelli Bivouac on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey temporarily closed
03/09/2024 - Alpinism
Canzio Bivouac on Grandes Jorasses & Borelli Bivouac on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey temporarily closed
The Ettore Canzio Bivouac at Colle des Grandes Jorasses in Val Ferret and the Lorenzo Borelli Bivouac at Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in Val Veny, Mont Blanc massif, are temporarily unfit for use. The Italian Academic alpine club, owner of...
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
30/08/2024 - Alpinism
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.
Big new climb on Karakorum's Sckem Braq by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
27/08/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Karakorum's Sckem Braq by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo have etablished a new route on Sckem Braq, Karakorum, Pakistan. 900 meters high, the route was opened alpine style and consists of 26 pitches with difficulties up to 7a and A3.
Tommaso Lamantia summits K2, his first 8000er
30/07/2024 - Alpinism
Tommaso Lamantia summits K2, his first 8000er
On 28 July 2024, Italian mountaineer Tommaso Lamantia summited K2 (8611m). The 42-year-old mountaineer, who is member of the CAI Biella expedition, climbed alone and without supplementary oxygen
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
04/06/2024 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
Italian mountain guide Tomas Franchini has died while climbing Nevado Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. The 35-year-old was among the most talented of his generation.
Huge landslide on Piz Scerscen in Switzerland
15/04/2024 - Alpinism
Huge landslide on Piz Scerscen in Switzerland
On Sunday 14 April 2024, an estimated million cubic meters of debris collapsed on the north face of Piz Scerscen, the 3971m mountain located between the highly popular Piz Bernina and Piz Roseg on the Swiss-Italian border. No casualties occurred...
New climb on Baintha Kabata (Karakorum) by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
02/08/2023 - Climbing
New climb on Baintha Kabata (Karakorum) by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer have established a new route up the South Pillar of Baintha Kabata (6250m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan.
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
31/05/2023 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.
Watch the 1963 first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia
08/04/2023 - Alpinism
Watch the 1963 first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia
The documentary of the first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia, completed on 16 January 1963 by British mountaineers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans.
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply...
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
24/01/2023 - Alpinism
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had...