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Civetta North-West, the new guidebook by Alessandro Baù & Luca Vallata
13/08/2025 - Book-press
Civetta North-West, the new guidebook by Alessandro Baù & Luca Vallata
The climbing guidebook 'Civetta North-West' by Alessandro Baù and Luca Vallata has recently been published by Idea Montagna. With kind permission from the authors, we're publishing the introduction to the 'Wall of Walls' of the Dolomites, along with the route description and topo of the classic 'Solleder-Lettenbauer’, first ascended by Gustav Lettenbauer and Emil Solleder...
First climb established on Mt. Phandambiri in Mozambique
12/08/2025 - Climbing
First climb established on Mt. Phandambiri in Mozambique
In Mozambique, Mirco Grasso and Samuele Mazzolini have established 'O caminho dos cogumelos' on the east face of Mount Panda, also known as Phandambiri. Nearly 900 meters high and graded 7a, this is the first route on this granite monolith. The two climbers are part of a larger expedition that...
Italian expedition aims for winter ascent of Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
05/08/2025 - Interviews
Italian expedition aims for winter ascent of Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
An strong Italian expedition comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Tommaso Lamantia and Marco Majori is currently on its way to Patagonia where it aims to make the first winter ascent of the Casarotto route on the Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy.
New route on Middle Huey Spire at Cirque of Unclimbables in Canada
01/08/2025 - Alpinism
New route on Middle Huey Spire at Cirque of Unclimbables in Canada
Italian alpinists Davide Bacci, Enrico Bittelli, Dario Eynard and Giacomo Meliffi have made the first ascent of 'L'oro dello Yukon' on Middle Huey Spire on the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada.
After the Santner Refuge scandal, South Tyrol approves new law to prevent sale of public lands in mountainous areas
18/03/2025 - Environment
After the Santner Refuge scandal, South Tyrol approves new law to prevent sale of public lands in mountainous areas
The Provincial Council of Bolzano in the South Tyrol, Italy, has unanimously approved a bill to modify the management of inalienable heritage in mountainous areas of historical, cultural, or landscape value above an altitude of 1,600 meters. The opinion of an expert committee composed of provincial offices, the AVS (Alpine...
Rysy 'Direttissima' in High Tatras climbed free by Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel, Tomek Klimcza
14/02/2025 - Alpinism
Rysy 'Direttissima' in High Tatras climbed free by Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel, Tomek Klimcza
From 8-10 February 2025, the team of Polish climbers consisting of Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel and Tomek Klimczak made the first free ascent of the classic 'Direttissima' on the east face of Rysy in the High Tatras, Slovakia. The 13-pitch, 450m mixed climb is now graded VII M8+ and was...
Robert Jasper receives 'Primus Inter Pares' award from Polish Mountaineering Association
28/01/2025 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper receives 'Primus Inter Pares' award from Polish Mountaineering Association
German alpinist Robert Jasper has been awarded the 'Primus Inter Pares 2024' prize from the Polski Związek Alpinizmu, the Polish alpine club. This award recognises his extraordinary life's work and his pioneering first ascents in the field of alpinism
US Congress passes Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act
20/12/2024 - Climbing
US Congress passes Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act
In what is being hailed as a momentous decision for climbing policy, US Congress has passed the Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act. Furthermore, the National Park Service has withdrawn its proposal to prohibit fixed anchors such as slings, pins, and bolts. This means that wilderness climbing will be protected by...
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
01/10/2024 - Climbing
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
A Scottish-Slovak team comprised of Callum Johnson, Tim Miller, Simon Smith and Miška Izakovičová recently returned from a highly successful climbing expedition to the Torsukattak Fjord in southern Greenland where they established multiple new climbs, including 'Mussels for Tea, Packrafts in the Sea' (E6 6b (7b), 1350m) and 'Texture like...
Canzio Bivouac on Grandes Jorasses & Borelli Bivouac on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey temporarily closed
03/09/2024 - Alpinism
Canzio Bivouac on Grandes Jorasses & Borelli Bivouac on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey temporarily closed
The Ettore Canzio Bivouac at Colle des Grandes Jorasses in Val Ferret and the Lorenzo Borelli Bivouac at Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in Val Veny, Mont Blanc massif, are temporarily unfit for use. The Italian Academic alpine club, owner of the huts, provides the details.
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
30/08/2024 - Alpinism
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.
Big new climb on Karakorum's Sckem Braq by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
27/08/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Karakorum's Sckem Braq by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo have etablished a new route on Sckem Braq, Karakorum, Pakistan. 900 meters high, the route was opened alpine style and consists of 26 pitches with difficulties up to 7a and A3.
Tommaso Lamantia summits K2, his first 8000er
30/07/2024 - Alpinism
Tommaso Lamantia summits K2, his first 8000er
On 28 July 2024, Italian mountaineer Tommaso Lamantia summited K2 (8611m). The 42-year-old mountaineer, who is member of the CAI Biella expedition, climbed alone and without supplementary oxygen
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
04/06/2024 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
Italian mountain guide Tomas Franchini has died while climbing Nevado Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. The 35-year-old was among the most talented of his generation.
Huge landslide on Piz Scerscen in Switzerland
15/04/2024 - Alpinism
Huge landslide on Piz Scerscen in Switzerland
On Sunday 14 April 2024, an estimated million cubic meters of debris collapsed on the north face of Piz Scerscen, the 3971m mountain located between the highly popular Piz Bernina and Piz Roseg on the Swiss-Italian border. No casualties occurred as a result of this rock avalanche.
New climb on Baintha Kabata (Karakorum) by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
02/08/2023 - Climbing
New climb on Baintha Kabata (Karakorum) by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer have established a new route up the South Pillar of Baintha Kabata (6250m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan.