195 News found

The Millennium Cave at Cala Gonone is one of the most famous climbing spots in Sardinia, but also one of the coastal crags most at risk of bolt corrosion on the Italian island. In order to address safety issues, since 2017 Maurizio Oviglia has undertaken a systematic bolt replacement campaign,...

The safety of bolts on climbs close to the sea remains a very important issue, not only at the crags and multipitch routes on Sardinia and those overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, but also elsewhere. To avoid future accidents due to bolt failure, Maurizio Oviglia calls for greater awareness among all...

Last summer on the north face of Mount Demirkazik in the Ala Daglar range of Turkey, the Italians Alessandro Larcher, Rolando Larcher and Federica Mingolla established 'Close to Heaven'.

Watch Adam Ondra make the flash 'Greenspit' in Valle dell'Orco, Italy.

Berni Rivadossi and Giorgio Consiglio, helped by Ale Zaina and Max Faletti, have established 'Mona Lisa', a new multipitch sports climb on Monte Gallo on the outskirts of Palermo in Sicily.

In Sardinia, Italy, a group of mountain guides and aspirant guides have re-bolted the multi-pitch climbs 'L’ombra della mia mano' on Punta Cusidore, 'Legittimo bastardo' and 'Stella di Sangue' on Bruncu Nieddu and 'Sguercia' on Monte Uddè, as well as 4 climbs at the crag Monte Maccione crag. Matteo Canova,...

On 15/04/2025 Nasim Eshqi and Sina Heidari completed the first ascent of 'End Child Marriage' on Punta Cusidore in Sardinia, Italy. The climb is the third in Eshqi's ongoing project 'When Mountains Speak', which uses climbing as a platform to amplify human rights issues, with a focus on women’s rights.

Maurizio Oviglia shares the latest news and discusses the curent safety situation of sport crags in Sardinia. This first chapter is dedicated to the wild southwest coast and the crags at Gonnesa, Iglesias, Buggerru and Masua.

The third edition of 'Baunei, Sport climbing', the compact climbing guidebook by Maurizio Oviglia, has been published by Pietra di Luna Edizioni. One of the best-selling guidebooks to the east coast of Sardinia, Italy, features all the crags in the Baunei area, as well as the multi-pitch climbs on Pedra...

A fundraising campaign has been launched to rebolt the most at-risk sport climbs at Castello dell’Iride, one of the most beautiful crags in Sardinia.

The development of Gola di Mikado, a beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia, has been completed thanks to a crowdfunding campaign. All the details directly from Maurizio Oviglia, who bolted the routes together with Antonio Iaria and Tatjana Goex

Mountain guide Josef Hilpold has made the first ascent of 'Giai amus a obiare' (6b, 155m) on Pedra Longa in Sardinia.

Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to 6c, and a fundraiser has been launched to complete the...

Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.

We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.

Jonathan Bonaventura reports about 'I Colombiani', the new multi-pitch climb established on Parete dei Rotoli on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily) with Fabrizio Carmina and Martino Quintavalla.