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08.01.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayer celebrate Happy New Year ice climb in Dolomites

In Langental (Val Gardena, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Happy New Year, a two-pitch mixed route graded M6+.

03.01.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer spring up Seitensprung in Langental, Dolomites

On 27/12/2019 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of Seitensprung, a new ice climb in Val Lietres - Langental, Dolomites.

03.01.2020 by Deborah Bionaz in Alpinism

Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture

A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.

02.01.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Searching for the most famous Christmas Tree in China

The short film Searching for Christmas Tree that documents the search for, and the first ascent of, the mysterious Merry Christmas icefall in China.

02.01.2020 by Mirco Grasso in Alpinism

Dolomites Val Mesdì unveils demanding new mixed climb

Mirco Grasso, Daniel Ladurner, Santiago Padrós have made the first ascent of Para arriba, nach unten e bevilo! in the Val de Mesdi, Sella group, Dolomites. The two-pitch icefall was established ground-up with pegs and bolts, and has been graded M8 WI5. Grasso reports.

31.12.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Angelika Rainer settles the score, sends Ironman at Eptingen

South Tyrolean climber Angelika Rainer has repeated Ironman, the total dry tooling route at Eptingen in Switzerland.

29.12.2019 by Florian Riegler in Alpinism

Once in a Lifetime climbed integritas in Langental, Dolomites

In Val Lietres (Langental, Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Florian Riegler have repeated Once in a Lifetime, which they first ascended in February 2018. This is probably the first time that the icefall up Col Turont has been climbed entirely on ice. Riegler reports.

27.12.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Messner seeks unclimbed ice in Sarntal Alps and Dolomites

Simon Messner has recently climbed two new mixed routes: the first at the Sarner Scharte in the Sarntal valley (Sarntal Alps) with Kurt Brugger; the second - three additional pitches to Solo per un altro Hashtag - located in Val Lasties (Dolomites) with Martin Sieberer.

Vallée Blanche fortuitous crevasse rescue

The video of the mountain rescue carried out by Jeff Mercier and the French mountain rescue service of two very lucky skiers who fell into a crevasse while skiing off-piste down the Vallée Blanche in the Mont Blanc massif.

18.12.2019 by Marcel Schenk in Alpinism

Natascha Knecht, Marcel Schenk uncover new mixed climb deep in Switzerland's Val Bregaglia

On Mt. Al Balzet in Valle Albigna, a side valley of Val Bregaglia in Switzerland, Natascha Knecht and Marcel Schenk have made the first ascent of a new mixed climb called Un poco Mondo.

17.12.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Filip Babicz completes Ade Integrale, D15+ total dry deep in Gran Borna cave, Italy

On 26 November 2019 Filip Babicz completed Ade Integrale, a testing dry tooling route in the Gran Borna cave close to La Thuile in Valle d'Aosta, Italy. The Pole suggests D15+. The route is completely natural but, being total dry, climbs no ice whatsoever.

14.12.2019 by Santiago Padros in Alpinism

Dolomites ice climbing: Val Lasties Solo per un altro Hashtag integritas

In Val Lasties, Sella, Dolomites, Santiago Padrós and Diego Toigo have repeated the icefall Solo per un altro Hashtag avoiding the first mixed pitch. This is perhaps the first time that this pearl of the Dolomites has been climbed entirely on ice.

09.12.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Langental Dolomites / Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayr in tune with Saxofon

Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayr have climbed Saxofon, a possible new ice and mixed climb above the classic La Piovra icefall in Langental / Vallunga, Dolomites.

08.12.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mount Shkhara in Georgia: new route, first winter ascent video by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze

The video documenting the new route and first winter ascent of Mt. Shkhara (5,203 m) in Georgia, carried out in February 2018 by Archil Badriashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze.

06.12.2019 by Nathan Heald in Alpinism

Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru

American mountaineer Nathan Heald reports about Peruana Supreme (1000m, TD, AI4), a new route climbed alpine style up the South Face of Siula Grande in Peru with Peruvians Luis Crispin and Thomas Schilter, France's Benjamin Billet and Finland’s Arttu Pylkkanen.

03.12.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Lydia Bradey, first woman to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen

The short film about Lydia Bradey, the mountaineer from New Zealand who in 1988 became the first woman to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen.

29.11.2019 by Simon Chatelan in Alpinism

Simon Chatelan climbs new mixed route in Gastlosen massif, Switzerland

Swiss mountaineer Simon Chatelan reports about his new mixed route From Kirov with Love (200m, M9), established solo and then freed with Nicolas Jaquet.

20.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre perish on Aiguille du Plan in Mt Blanc massif

France’s Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre have perished on Aiguille du Plan in the Mont Blanc massif. The two were considered among the most talented mountaineers of their generation.

20.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Scottish winter climbing kickoff / Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson add Local Hero to An Teallach

Winter climbing in Scotland has begun in earnest with the first ascent of Local Hero at An Teallach by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson

19.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Orazio Codega, historic president and soul of CAMP, passes away aged 80

Orazio Codega, president and genuine soul of CAMP, has passed away aged 80. Born in 1939, from the Sixties until 2004 he shaped the Italian company into becoming it one of the world leaders in the production of climbing and mountaineering equipment.

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