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Laila Peak first integral ski descent by Carole Chambaret, Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein

French skiers Carole Chambaret, Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein have made the coveted first ski descent from the summit of Laila Peak (6096m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan. A few days later Italy’s Cala Cimenti and Switzerland’s Matthias Koenig made the second descent of the stunning NW Face from the summit.

30.05.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini enchain Ortler, Lavaredo and Großglockner in less than 48 hours

In a mere 47 hours and 16 minutes the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed the north face of Ortler, Cima Piccola di Lavaredo and the North Face of Grossglockner in Austria. The alpinists traveled from one mountain to the other on foot and by bicycle.

29.05.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

French forge new routes in Alaska's Revelation Mountains

In early April 2018 French alpinists Thomas Auvaro, Jeremy Fino, Matthieu Rideau and Antoine Rolle climbed two new routes in the Revelation Mountains in Alaska. Rideau provides the trip report.

25.05.2018 by Planetmountain in Events

Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 nominees for 5th edition

On July 14, 2018 Selva di Val Gardena will host the fifth edition of the Karl Unterkircher Award in memory of the South Tyrolean alpinist who died ten years ago on Nanga Parbat. The alpinists nominated for the 2018 award are Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon for the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, Ines Papert and Luka Lindič for their new route up Kyzyl Asker in Kyrgyzstan (China), and Simon Gietl and Marcel Schenk for the new mixed climb up Pizzo Badile in Switzerland. Special guest: Kurt Diemberger

23.05.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Himalayas: Marco Camandona and François Cazzanelli summit Lhotse, Everest updates

The Italian alpinists Marco Camandona and François Cazzanelli have climbed Lhotse without supplementary oxygen. The latest updates from Everest.

21.05.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Changabang North Face ascent video by Léo Billon, Sébastien Moatti, Sébastien Ratel

A first video of the repeat of the North Face of Changabang (6864 m), climbed alpine style from 11 - 13 May 2018 by French alpinists Léo Billon, Sébastien Moatti and Sébastien Ratel.

18.05.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Changabang North Face alpine style by France's Léo Billon, Sébastien Moatti, Sébastien Ratel

Climbing alpine style from 11 - 13 May, French alpinists Léo Billon, Sébastien Moatti and Sébastien Ratel belonging to Groupe Militaire de haute montagne (GMHM) have repeated the impressive North Face of Changabang (6864 m) in the Garhwal Himalaya in India.

16.05.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Everest oxygen failure accidents avoided

During an Everest summit bid members of a commercial expedition had to descend rapidly from circa 8500 meters when they experienced oxygen bottle regulator failures.

16.05.2018 by Ortovox in Gear

Precautionary recall of 3+ avalanche transceivers

Ortovox has launched a precautionary recall of 3+ avalanche transceivers running software 2.1. Published below is the press release provided by Ortovox.

10.05.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Thomas Bubendorfer climbs new route up Großglockner after Dolomites accident

13 months after his life-threatening accident at Sottoguda in the Dolomites, Austrian mountaineer Thomas Bubendorfer has established a new mixed climb up on the South Face of Grossglockner (3798 m) in Austria. The new route is called Das dritte Leben, The Third life, and Bubendorfer established the line with Max Sparber and Hans Zlöbl.

08.05.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler, 40 years ago Everest without supplementary oxygen

On 8 May 1978 Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler became the first to climb Mount Everest (8848m) without supplemental oxygen. The barrier-breaking undertaking deemed impossible that forever changed Himalayan mountaineering and raised the bar for all future ascents.

02.05.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson climb Life Compass, big new route in Canada

Alpinists Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson have made the first ascent of Life Compass (IV 5.10a M4+ 80°, TD+, 980m of climbing), a big new alpine outing up the West Face of Mount Blane in Canada.

30.04.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simone La Terra dies on Dhaulagiri in Nepal

The 36 year-old Italian alpinist Simone La Terra died during an attempt to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in Nepal.

30.04.2018 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Ueli Steck first anniversary of his accident in the Himalayas

Remembering Ueli Steck, the great Swiss alpinist who perished a year ago on Nuptse (Himalayas, Nepal).

30.04.2018 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Everest - Lhotse traverse, Sherpa Tenji attempts mountaineering enchainment in memory of Ueli Steck

Interview with British mountaineer Jon Griffith on expedition in Nepal where Sherpa Tenji will attempt the famous Everest - Lhotse traverse without supplementary oxygen. Griffith is coordinating the live streaming of the ascent in memory of his close friend Ueli Steck who planned this enchainment last year.

Red Bull Der Lange Weg, the Alps ski mountaineering traverse ends in Nice

Yesterday the Red Bull Der Lange Weg came to an end in Nice, France. The long ski mountaineering traverse across the Alps from Vienna to Nice was completed by Bernhard Hug, David Wallmann, Philipp Reiter and Janelle Smiley and Mark Smiley after 1,721 kilometers and gained almost 90,000 meters height difference.

19.04.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Alaska: new British route on Mt. Jezebel by Tom Livingstone and Uisdean Hawthorn

British mountaineers Tom Livingstone and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Fun or Fear, a new climb up the East face of Mt. Jezebel in the Revelations range of Alaska. Climbed alpine style over two days, the route breaches difficulties up to M6+, 90 deg neve, Ai6 R.

La ceinture des Drus descent on Aiguille du Dru

On Saturday 13 April 2018 Vivian Bruchez, Jean Baptiste Charlet and Jonathan Charlet made the first ski and snowboard descent of a new line on the West Face of Aiguille du Dru in the Mont Blanc massif.

10.04.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Los Picos 6500: 13 Andes summits in 43 days by Franco Nicolini and Franchini brothers

The first part of Los Picos 6500 expedition comprised of Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini has now come to an end. The Italian alpinists have climbed 13 of the 16 highest peaks above 6500 meters in the South American Andes and the final three will be attempted when weather conditions improve in Peru in September.

05.04.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Everest - A Time Lapse Film by Elia Saikaly

The timelapse film of Everest by Canadian mountaineer and photographer Elia Saikaly.

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