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24.06.2022 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria

On 10/06/2022 on north face of Ranrapalca 6162m in Peru the Italian mountaineers Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori and Giovanni Zaccaria established a new mixed route alpine style. 'Mucha Banana', is 600m high with difficulties estimated at 80°, AI3+, M5.

23.06.2022 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Siula Grande in Peru the new objective for Matteo Della Bordella and Italian High Mountain Military Corps

Elite Italian High Mountain Military Corps alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni, Marco Majori, Filip Babicz and Stefano Cordaro have set off on an expedition to Peru where they will attempt a new route up the east face of Siula Grande.

21.06.2022 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Marc-Andrés Vision on Torre Egger in Patagonia

The video by Brette Harrington documenting the first ascent of Marc-Andrés Vision, a climb on Torre Egger in Patagonia imagined by Marc-André Leclerc and completed in 2020 by Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton.

16.06.2022 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mark Thomas, Mike Turner are Thunderstruck on Kichatna Spire in Alaska

British mountaineers Mark Thomas and Mike Turner have made the first ascent of Thunderstruck on the East Face of Kichatna Spire in Alaska. The stunning 1200m big wall was established after 12 days of hard and bold climbing.

13.06.2022 by Tomas Franchini in Alpinism

Shaue Sar climbed in Karakorum by Philipp Brugger, Tomas Franchini, Lukas Waldner

Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini reports about the first ascent of the virgin Shaue Sar (6653m) in Karakorum, Pakistan, first ascended on 27/05/2022 with Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner. Franchini also soloed the unclimbed peaks Gypsy Sar (5810m) and Croz von Zartgurben (4650m).

08.06.2022 by Lidia Pesce in Alpinism

An appeal for Korra

The family of Korra Corrado Pesce, the 41-year-old Italian who perished at the end of January on Cerro Torre in Patagonia, has launched an appeal asking the Argentine government to register the death of the mountaineer in order to obtain a death certificate to support the rights of his daughter. Published below is the statement of Korra’s sister Lidia and the link to the online petition on change.org

08.06.2022 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander

From 13 to 16 May 2022 the Alaskan alpinists August Franzen and Clint Helander established 'Full Moon Fever' (AK 6, M7, A1, AI4), a huge new mixed climb up the West Buttress of Mount Hunter (4442m) in Alaska.

07.06.2022 by Priti Wright in Alpinism

Torre Egger Traverse in Patagonia by Priti Wright, Jeff Wright

In January 2022 Priti and Jeff Wright traversed three of the four peaks in the Patagonian Cerro Torre range: Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron and Torre Egger, linking three different routes: Festerville, Spigolo dei Bimbi and Espejo del Viento. The video and Priti's smash and grab trip report, that follows their successful summit of Cerro Torre in February 2020.

06.06.2022 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman

From 23 - 27 May 2022 David Allfrey, Whit Magro and Graham Zimmerman established a new alpine, big wall route on the Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire in the Alaska Range. They named the 950m climb 'The Pace of Comfort' and graded it VI 5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.

01.06.2022 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm

From 17 April to 21 May 2022 Polish mountaineer Marek Raganowicz climbed a new route solo on Polar Sun Arm, the huge buttress that guards Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island in Canada. MikroKozmik Variations was climbed over 35 days past difficulties up to VII, A4+, M5 and, after 15 pitches, joins Superbalance for a further 11 pitches.

01.06.2022 by Planetmountain in Events

A help for Evgeny Kryvosheytsev in Ukraine

Michael Pupeza, Anna Torretta and Stéphanie Maureau have launched a crowdfunding appeal to help Evgeny Kryvosheytsev, the talented climber and ice climber in difficulty due to the war in Ukraine.

30.05.2022 by Claude Gardien in Alpinism

Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist

Claude Gardien, historic editor-in-chief of the French magazine Vertical, remembers Simone Badier who passed away on 18 March 2022. Born in 1936 and as talented as she was discreet, she was one of the leading figures in women's climbing and mountaineering.

26.05.2022 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Surreal and magical. David Göttler on Everest without supplementary oxygen

Interview with German alpinist David Göttler who at 9:45am on 21 May 2022 reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen. This is the 43-year-old's sixth 8000er, after Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu.

24.05.2022 by Planetmountain in Environment

More than a route, Lena Müller's new climbing direction

The short film 'More than a route' by Tom Dauer which portrays the ecologist and climber Lena Müller and her decision to embark on a new route: climbing with sustainable means that involves giving up the use of the car.

22.05.2022 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

David Göttler summits Everest without supplementary oxygen

On 21 May 2022, 43-year-old German alpinist David Göttler reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen. This is is sixth 8000er, after Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu.

18.05.2022 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Jugal Spire in Nepal climbed by Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden

Interview with British mountaineer Paul Ramsden who with Tim Miller completed an alpine style first ascent of The Phantom Line (1200m, ED+) up the north face of a previously unclimbed and unnamed 6563m peak now called Jugal Spire in the Jugal Himal region of Nepal

13.05.2022 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Andrea Lanfri, Luca Montanari summit Everest

At 05:40 local time the paralympic athlete Andrea Lanfri and his mountain guide Luca Montanari reached the summit of Everest. Both are currently resting at Camp 4 at the South Col

Baffin Island Polar Moon, big first ski descent by Brette Harrington, Christina Lustenberger

On 4 May 2022 Brette Harrington and Christina Lustenberger made the first ski descent of Polar Moon (1200m, 45°) on Walker Arm, Baffin Island

10.05.2022 by Marco Longo in Alpinism

New winter climb on Cima Immink, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites

Marco Longo reports about the first ascent, with Pietro Simon, of Scivolo del Riky on Cima Immink, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites. The winter route was dedicated to Riccardo Simon, Pietro's father

09.05.2022 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Changabang West Wall repeated after 46 years by Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Matthew Scholes

Kim Ladiges and Matthew Scholes from Australia and Daniel Joll from New Zealand have made the coveted second ascent of the West Wall of Changabang (6880m) in India, first climbed by British mountaineers Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker in 1976.




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