Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington in Alaska. Luka Lindič reports
Luka Lindič reports about the first ascent, carried out with Ines Papert, of Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington’s West face, Central Denali Range, Alaska in April 2021.
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Andrzej Bargiel claims first ascent and ski descent of Yawash Sar II in Pakistan
On 30 April Andrzej Bargiel made the first ascent Yawash Sar II (6178m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Having reached the summit via the west face, the Polish mountaineer then made the mountain’s first ski descent.
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič climb new route up Mt. Huntington in Alaska
Ines Papert from Germany and Luka Lindič from Slovenia have established Heart of Stone, a new mixed climb up the west face of Mt. Huntington (3731m) in Alaska.
Brette Harrington, Dylan Cunningham devour Just a Nibble on Mount Niblock in Canada
On 17 April 2021 Dylan Cunningham and Brette Harrington established Just a Nibble (M6R, 5.10-, WI5, 500m), a tenuous mixed climb up the virgin NE Face of Mount Niblock in Canada.
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli
Italian mountaineers Leonardo Gheza and Giulia Venturelli enchained the north faces of Adamello, Cima della Busazza and Presanella in a single day. The 51km outing covered 3700 vertical gain and was completed in 22 hours.
Watch Sean Villanueva make his Moonwalk Traverse in Patagonia
A first video of Belgian mountaineer Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll making his solo ascent of the Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia from 5 - 10 February 2021, which he dubbed the Moonwalk Traverse.
Hervé Barmasse solos all six Matterhorn ridges
On Wednesday 3 March 2021 Italian mountaineer Hervé Barmasse soloed Via De Amicis on the Matterhorn. With this ascent the 43-year-old mountaineer from Valle d'Aosta closed the circle, becoming the first to solo all six ridges of the Matterhorn.
Aiguille de Pélerins, John McCune and Will Sim go Above and Beyond
British mountaineers John McCune and Will Sim have climbed what is likely to be a new route to the left of Beyond Good and Evil on the North Face of Aiguille de Pélerins in the Mont Blanc massif. Above and Beyond has been graded ED M6 6b+.
Cimon della Pala, Dolomites: Emanuele Andreozzi, Matteo Faletti establish Elements of Life
Alpinists Emanuele Andreozzi and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of Elements of Life (900m, AI5/M6), a spectacular mixed climb up the north face of Cimon della Pala in the Pale di San Martino group of the Italian Dolomites.
Virger Nordkette winter traverse completed by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer
From 2 -3 March 2021 Matthias Wurzer and Vittorio Messini, two mountain guides from Kals, Austria, completed a winter ascent of the Virger Nordkette (Frosnitzkamm) from Hintereggerkogel to Galtenscharte in one and a half days. Messini reports.
Matterhorn Bonatti route repeated by Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti
On 31 March 2021 Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti repeated the Bonatti route on the Matterhorn.
T’enflammes pas, new mixed climb on Flammes de Pierre in Mont Blanc massif
Aymeric Clouet, Mathieu Maynadier and Charles Noirot have established T’enflammes pas, a new mixed climb on Flammes de Pierre in the Mont Blanc massif.
Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering
Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon recently returned from an attempt to climb Manaslu in winter. An expedition which ended without the hoped-for success but which, once again, teaches us to 'find more important goals than the summit.'
Zahnlos at Seekofel, new mixed climb in the Dolomites
At Seekofel / Croda del Becco above Lake Braies in the Dolomites alpinists Manuel Baumgartner and Daniel Töchterle from the South Tyrol, Italy, completed the first ascent of Zahnlos (200m, WI6/M6).
Dogma climbed at Rein in Taufers by Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner
On Saturday 30 January 2021 the mountain guides Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner from the South Tyrol, Italy, made the first ascent of a difficult mixed climb at Rein in Taufers called Dogma.
First winter ascent of Expander enchainment in Poland’s Tatra mountains
From 2 - 4 March Polish mountaineers Maciek Ciesielski, Piotr Sułowski and Kacper Tekieli made the first winter ascent of Expander, reputed to be the most famous link-up of four existing routes in the Tatras in Poland.
Mount Nelson first ski descent in Canada by Christina Lustenberger, Ian McIntosh
On 4/03/2021 alpinists and extreme skiers Ian McIntosh and Christina Lusti Lustenberger completed their childhood dream by scoring the first ski descent of Mount Nelson in Canada, skiing the mountain's striking East Face.
Legrima on Langkofel, Dolomites, finally repeated by Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
From 21 to 22 December 2020 Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth from the South Tyrol Italy, completed the first repeat of La Legrima on the northeast face of Langkofel / Sassolungo in the Dolomites. The difficult mixed climb was established in 2013 by Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder.
Simon Gietl completes winter solo of Große Mauer on Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
Yesterday Simon Gietl made a winter solo ascent of Große Mauer / Grande Muro on Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass dla Crusc in the Dolomites. The mountaineer the South Tyrol, Italy, returned to valley by paraglider.
Civetta Dolomites double: first winter ascents of Chimera Verticale and W Mexico Cabrones
Two huge climbs were repeated on the northwest face of Civetta in the Dolomites, Italy: Chimera Verticale by Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth, and W Mexico Cabrones by Alessandro Baù, Thomas Gianola and Giovanni Zaccaria. This is the first time both routes have been climbed in winter.
