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18.12.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey

planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). Ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco alla leggenda, Repentance super, La volpe e l’uva, Monday Money, Gusto di Scozia and Flash estivo.

17.12.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Brenta Dolomites: new mixed climb up Cima Grostè

Jacopo Pellizzari introduces Siamo fuori dal Tunnel, a new mixed climb first ascended with Mauro Mabboni on 2 and 5 December 2018 up the West Face of Cima Grostè (Brenta Dolomites).

13.12.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Teufelsgeige, new mixed climb in Langental, Dolomites

Ice climbing in the Dolomites: in Langental, Dolomites, Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Teufelsgeige (125m, WI5+, M6), a new mixed climb circa 30 meters to the right of the classic icefall Piovra.

10.12.2018 by Tommy Caldwell in Environment

Tommy Caldwell, climate change and Yosemite valley

Starting from what he has observed in the Yosemite Valley, American climber Tommy Caldwell shares his concerns about climate change.

08.12.2018 by Daniel Ladurner in Alpinism

Airport, possible new ice climb in Langental, Dolomites, by Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr

In Langental (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayr have climbed a possible new icefall they have called Airport. The line runs to the left of the classic Jumbo Jet drip and has been graded WI5+ M4 160m. Ladurner reports.

06.12.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson cast their Forge in Scotland

Scottish mountaineers Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson have started their winter climbing season in style with the first ascent of The Forge X/10 at An Teallach in NNW Scotland.

05.12.2018 by Planetmountain in Books-press

La Sportiva 90th, mountaineering, climbing and footwear history in a prize-winning book

The book 'La Sportiva 90th, a history of alpinism, passion, innovation' celebrating the first 90 years of the famous Italian outdoor footwear and clothing company is now on sale at www.lasportiva.com.

05.12.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Fitz Roy Supercanaleta climbed in Patagonia by Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli, Federico Secchi

From 25 - 28 November 2018 the Italian alpinists Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli and Federico Secchi repeated the famous Supercanaleta route up Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

04.12.2018 by Planetmountain in Interviews

David Lama / The Lunag Ri Solo Interview

Interview with David Lama after his October 2018 solo first ascent of Lunag Ri, the 6907m mountain on the border between Nepal and Tibet.

03.12.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Russisches Roulette / New Kristallwand mixed climb by Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer

Austrian mountain guides Matthias Wurzer and Peter Wurzer have established Russisches Roulette, Russian roulette, a difficult and dangerous mixed climb up the northeast face of Kristallwand (Venediger Group, Hohe Tauern, Austria).

03.12.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Le Quatuor à cordes, new climb up Lobuche East above Nepal's Khumbu valley

Himalayan climbing: French mountaineers Aurélien Vaissière, Antonin Cecchini, Laurent Thévenot and Symon Welfringer have established Le Quattro à Cordes, a new route up Lobuche East (6120m) above the Khumbu valley in Nepal.

30.11.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron climb A Peak Central Couloir in Cabinet Mountains, USA

The Central Couloir of A Peak in the Cabinet Mountains, Montana, USA, has been climbed by Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron.

27.11.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

David Lama Lunag Ri solo ascent video

The video of David Lama and his solo ascent of Lunag Ri, the 6907m mountain on the border between Nepal and Tibet, climbed on 25 October 2018 by the Austrian mountaineer.

26.11.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada

Chris Wright (USA/UK) and Graham Zimmerman (USA/NZ) have made the first ascent of a long, difficult mixed route on the North Face of Mount MacDonald in the Selkirk Mountains in British Columbia, Canada. 1000 meters long, the Indirect American was climbed from 11 - 13 November 2018 and deals with difficulties up to WI4+ M7.

24.11.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Wechnerwand North Face climbed by Philipp Brugger, Martin Sieberer

At the start of November 2018 Philipp Brugger and Martin Sieberer climbed a new winter route up the North Face of Wechnerwand in the Stubai Alps in Austria.

23.11.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Himjung in Nepal / Vitus Auer, Sebastian Fuchs, Stefan Larcher climb new route up 7000er

Climbing alpine style for 3 days, mountaineers Vitus Auer, Sebastian Fuchs and Stefan Larcher have established a new route up Mt. Himjung (7092 m) in Nepal.

22.11.2018 by Jesús Ibarz in Alpinism

Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas

At the end of October 2018 Spanish mountaineers Pablo Ruix (Blín), Jesús Ibarz and Edu Recio established a new route up Langdung (6357 m) above the Rolwaling valley in Nepal. Ibarz reports about their Bihâna (6c+, 1500 m, ED+).

16.11.2018 by Maurizio Giordani in Alpinism

Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani

Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron, Nancy Paoletto, Giorgio Zeni, Luisa Boscheri, Andrea Marchel and Nadia Pezzi.

15.11.2018 by Anna Torretta in Alpinism

Mugu Peaks in Nepal, new route climbed by Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord

The report by Italian mountaineer Anna Torretta who with Cecilia Buil from Spain and Ixchel Foord from Mexico made the first ascent of Couloir SW (600m, A1, 6a, M5), a new climb up the virgin Mugu Peaks (5467 meters) in the Karnali district of NW Nepal.

14.11.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simone Moro, Tamara Lunger and the first winter ascent of Pik Pobeda in Siberia

The short film of the first winter ascent of Pik Pobeda, carried out by Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger. The highest mountain in Siberia is known as one of coldest places on earth.

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