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24.11.2021 by Giuseppe Vidoni in Alpinism

Cascata Major on Mont Blanc East Face climbed by Francesco Civra Dano, Giuseppe Vidoni

On the east face of Mont Blanc Giuseppe Vidoni and Francesco Civra Dano have climbed an icefall that had never been ascended before. Described as 'a real icefall at 4000m, about 200 meters high in the middle of the Brenva face’, the line then took them to the summit of Mont Blanc. Vidoni tells the story.

23.11.2021 by Lindsay Griffin in Alpinism

Yasushi Yamanoi to receive Lifetime Achievement Award Piolet d'Or Carrière 2021

Japanese mountaineer Yasushi Yamanoi is to receive the13th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated in Briançon, France, from 26 to 29 November.

17.11.2021 by Simon Richardson in Alpinism

A Brief Climbing History to Mont Vert de Greuvetta, Mont Blanc massif

The brief climbing history to Mont Vert de Greuvetta in the Mont Blanc massif, summarised by Simon Richardson who, this autumn with Michael Rinn, climbed a series of new routes in the range.

10.11.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Peak Kosmos in Kyrgyzstan climbed by Alexander Gukov, Victor Koval

Ace Russian mountaineers Alexander Gukov and Victor Koval have completed an impressive first ascent in the Kokshaal-Too Ridge mountain range, climbing a direct line up the center of the north face of Peak Kosmos in pure alpine style over a period of 7 days.

The Ultimate Run, Markus Eder’s dream descent

The movie The Ultimate Run featuring freestyle skier Markus Eder from the South Tyrol, Italy.

04.11.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tsoboje Northwest Face in Nepal climbed by Nejc Marčič, Luka Stražar

Climbing alpine style from 28 - 30 October 2021, Slovenian alpinists Nejc Marčič and Luka Stražar established a new route up the NW Face of Tsoboje (Chobutse) above the Rolwaling Valley in Nepal.



26.10.2021 by 
Rafa Vadillo in Alpinism

New ice climbs in Lapland, Sweden


Rafa Vadillo from Catalonia, Spain, reports about new ice climbs established in Swedish Lapland, in particular in the Stora Sjöfallet National Park and the Sarek National Park.


19.10.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines

French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Benjamin Védrines have climbed a remarkable new route up the virgin North Face of Chamlang (7319m) in Nepal. 'À l'ombre du mensonge' was ascended alpine style over 4 days and breaches difficulties up WI 5+, M5+, 90°, ED.

13.10.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

James Price summits unclimbed Passu Sar North in Pakistan's Karakoram

This summer James Price made a first ascent of Passu Sar North (6884m) and opened new routes on Passu Diar (7295m) and Maidon Sar (6090m), also referred to as Darmyani Peak, by climbing the mountain's south ridge.

12.10.2021 by Tomas Franchini in Alpinism

Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru

The report by Tomas Franchini, currently in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where he has climbed Nevado Ulta and Nevado Huandoy Norte.



08.10.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Link Sar in Pakistan, Graham Zimmerman’s film now online

The film Link Sar directed by Graham Zimmerman, which documents the first ascent of the 7041m peak in Pakistan’s Karakorum, first ascended in 2019 by Zimmerman with Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Chris Wright.

08.10.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention

The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan climber Silvia Vidal has received a special mention.

07.10.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

The Last Mountain: the story of Tom Ballard

The trailer of The Last Mountain, the BBC documentary directed by Chris Terrill that explores the life of British mountaineer Tom Ballard who died while attempting to climb Nanga Parbat in February 2019 with Italy's Daniele Nardi.

01.10.2021 by Dmitry Golovchenko in Alpinism

Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev

Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev have made an alpine-style ascent of the South Face of Voennikh Topografov, aka Military Topographers, at 6873 m the third highest mountain in the Tian-Shan range. Golovchenko reports.

30.09.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Andrea Lanfri completes bike & climb from Genoa to Monte Rosa’s Margherita hut

As part of his 'From 0 to 0' project, Andrea Lanfri set off from Genoa by bike and climbed to the Capanna Margherita (4554m) on Monte Rosa, before returning to Genoa by bike. The Paralympic athlete and mountaineer from Lucca travelled over 470km by bike and needed just 18 hours and 7 minutes to complete the first stage from the sea to the hut.

28.09.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project

With the ascent of The Shroud route on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have completed North6, their project to climb the six most famous north faces of the Alps, traveling from one mountain to the next by bike. The two mountaineers required 18 days to climb the north faces of Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Eiger, Matterhorn, Petit Dru and Grandes Jorasses.

27.09.2021 by Archil Badriashvili in Alpinism

Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi climbed in Hindu Kush by Georgian expedition

A small Georgian expedition comprised of Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze has made two interesting ascents in the Rosh Gol valley in Pakistan: the first ascent of the Northwest summit of Saraghrar 7,303m and the third ascent of Languta-e-Barfi 6,833m.

24.09.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Petit Dru climbed by Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli as fifth north face in North6 project

With their ascent of Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have now climbed five of the six great north faces of the Alps. After Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Eiger, Matterhorn and Petit Dru, now the only peak missing off their list is the Grandes Jorasses.

22.09.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Matterhorn Schmid route in North6 project

After Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile and the Eiger, alpinists Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have now climbed the Matterhorn via the Schmid route. To complete their North6 project, only two famous north faces of the Alps are still missing off the list: Grandes Jorasses and Petit Dru.

20.09.2021 by Simon Messner in Alpinism

Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer attempt Praqpa Ri in Karakorum

Simon Messner reports about his August 2021 attempt with Martin Sieberer to climb Praqpa Ri (7.134m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan.

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