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09.12.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Langental Dolomites / Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayr in tune with Saxofon

Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayr have climbed Saxofon, a possible new ice and mixed climb above the classic La Piovra icefall in Langental / Vallunga, Dolomites.

08.12.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mount Shkhara in Georgia: new route, first winter ascent video by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze

The video documenting the new route and first winter ascent of Mt. Shkhara (5,203 m) in Georgia, carried out in February 2018 by Archil Badriashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze.

06.12.2019 by Nathan Heald in Alpinism

Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru

American mountaineer Nathan Heald reports about Peruana Supreme (1000m, TD, AI4), a new route climbed alpine style up the South Face of Siula Grande in Peru with Peruvians Luis Crispin and Thomas Schilter, France's Benjamin Billet and Finland’s Arttu Pylkkanen.

03.12.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Lydia Bradey, first woman to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen

The short film about Lydia Bradey, the mountaineer from New Zealand who in 1988 became the first woman to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen.

29.11.2019 by Simon Chatelan in Alpinism

Simon Chatelan climbs new mixed route in Gastlosen massif, Switzerland

Swiss mountaineer Simon Chatelan reports about his new mixed route From Kirov with Love (200m, M9), established solo and then freed with Nicolas Jaquet.

20.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre perish on Aiguille du Plan in Mt Blanc massif

France’s Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre have perished on Aiguille du Plan in the Mont Blanc massif. The two were considered among the most talented mountaineers of their generation.

20.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Scottish winter climbing kickoff / Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson add Local Hero to An Teallach

Winter climbing in Scotland has begun in earnest with the first ascent of Local Hero at An Teallach by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson

19.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Orazio Codega, historic president and soul of CAMP, passes away aged 80

Orazio Codega, president and genuine soul of CAMP, has passed away aged 80. Born in 1939, from the Sixties until 2004 he shaped the Italian company into becoming it one of the world leaders in the production of climbing and mountaineering equipment.

16.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Hors Piste, the unmissable animated short film with mountain rescuers Parmesan & Salami

The award-winning animated short film Hors Piste is online, featuring the hilarious and hapless mountain rescuers Parmesan and Salami

15.11.2019 by Juho Knuuttila in Alpinism

Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts

From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.

06.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tengi Ragi Tau West Face new route in Nepal by Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer

A French / Swiss team comprised of Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer and Charles Noirot has climbed a difficult new route up the West Face of Tengi Ragi Tau in the Rowaling Himalaya in Nepal. Climbing alpine style from 26 - 29 October 2019, Schüpbach and Welfringer ascended their Trinité (1400m, M6, AI 5) to the mountain’s north summit.

30.10.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

David Lama memorial

The video of the David Lama memorial day, in rememberance of the Austrian mountaineer who lost his life along with Hansjörg Auer and Jess Roskelley on Howse Peak in Canada last April.

29.10.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nirmal Purja climbs Shishapagma and completes 14 eight-thousanders in under 7 months

Earlier today the Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja reached the summit of Shishapagma and, in doing so, completed his ‘Project Possible’ which aimed at climbing all fourteen eight-thousanders in less than seven months. Purja required just six months and six days; the previous record to complete Himalayan crown was over 7 years.

29.10.2019 by Ezio Marlier in Alpinism

Grand Flambeau, two new mixed climbs signal start to Mont Blanc winter season

Italian mountain guide Ezio Marlier introduces the new sector Cuori di Ghiaccio on Grand Flambeau in the Mont Blanc massif, where so far this year he has established five new mixed climbs.

24.10.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer

30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.

23.10.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tengi Ragi Tau virgin West Face climbed alpine style by Alan Rousseau, Tino Villanueva

American alpinists Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau have made a rare ascent of Tengi Ragi Tau (6,938m) in Nepal. Climbing alpine style for 5 days, the duo established a new route up the hitherto unclimbed west face.

16.10.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Wanda Rutkiewicz honoured by Google

Polish mountaineer Wanda Rutkiewicz is honoured today with a Google doodle. Recognised as one of the greatest mountaineers of all times, on 16 October 1978 she became the third woman to climb Everest, while in 1986 with France’s Liliane Barrard she became the first woman to climb K2. She ascended eight 8000ers before perishing on Kangchenjunga in 1992.

09.10.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Koyo Zom West Face first ascent by Tom Livingstone and Ally Swinton

British mountaineers Tom Livingstone and Ally Swinton have climbed the virgin west face of Koyo Zom (6877m), the highest mountain in the Hindu Raj range in Pakistan. The two were part of a greater expedition including John Crook, Uisdean Hawthorn and Will Sim.

Mont Blanc Planpincieux glacier in danger of collapsing

The Planpincieux glacier on the Italian side of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc) is at risk of collapsing. The road into Val Ferret has been closed. And yet it seems as if nothing awakens us.

19.09.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Bhagirathi IV West Face climbed by Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera, Matteo De Zaiacomo

The Italian Ragni di Lecco mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo have succeeded in climbing the virgin west face of Bhagirathi IV (6193m) in the Indian Himalayas. A great adventure and a great climb!

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