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12.08.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh climb new route up Huandoy North in Peru

Climbing alpine style, Márek Holeček and Radoslav Groh have established a new route up Huandoy North (6360m) in Peru.

09.08.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta

The first of two parts written by Hector Silva Peralta, a Chilean mountaineer who lived in Italy for 9 years before traveling to Chile, Canada and Alaska pursuing his dream: to become a mountaineer.

08.08.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Muztagh Tower Black Tooth, first ascent details by Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer

Details of the first ascent of Black Tooth, the 6718m mountain next to Muztagh Tower in the Karakorum, Pakistan, carried out by Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer on 26 July 2019.

04.08.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer summit Black Tooth in Karakorum

Mountaineers Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Black Tooth, a 6718m mountain in the Karakorum range in Pakistan.

02.08.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Denis Urubko establishes new route solo on Gasherbrum II

Climbing alpine style, the 46-year-old Russian-Polish mountaineer Denis Urubko has forged a new route up Gasherbrum II (8032m) in Pakistan.

24.07.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

K2 summits by Adrian Ballinger, Carla Perez & Co

K2 was climbed without supplementary oxygen today by Adrian Ballinger and Carla Perez. Shortly beforehand the summit of the second highest mountain in the world was reached by Nirmal Purja and his sherpa team climbing with O2.

22.07.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Francesco Cassardo rescued on Gasherbrum VII

Dr. Francesco Cassardo, the Italian mountaineer injured last Saturday at over 6300 meters on Gasherbrum VII, has been airlifted to safety. The rescue efforts by Carlalberto Cala Cimenti, Denis Urubko, Don Bowie, Jaroslaw Zdanowich and Janusz Adamski and also Marco Confortola proved to be of fundamental importance.

22.07.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc

The two mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl have carried out an extremely fast ascent of the Peutérey Integral Ridge in the Mont Blanc massif in just 12 hours and 12 minutes. The round-trip back to the starting point at the La Sorgente campsite in Val Veny, Italy, required just 15 hours and 55 minutes.

19.07.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Janez Svoljšak, goodbye to the promising climber from Slovenia

Slovenian alpinist Janez Svoljšak passed away on 15 July at base camp while on an expedition to climb Tahu Rutum (6650m), Karakorum, Pakistan. The promising mountaineer was just 25 years old.

19.07.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Max Berger paraglides off K2 Shoulder

The video of Austrian mountaineer Max Berger paragliding off the Shoulder of K2 at an altitude of almost 8000m.

10.07.2019 by Denis Trento in Alpinism

Aiguille Noire, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and Mont Blanc. Integral 2.0

Denis Trento reports about a fast ascent of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey carried out by Marco Farina and Gabriele Carrara combined, the next day with Trento himself, with the Via Bonatti - Oggioni up the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and the summit of Mont Blanc.

08.07.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Max Berger summits Broad Peak, paraglides from Camp 3

Last week Austrian mountaineer Max Berger summited Broad Peak (8047m) and then paraglided from Camp 3 at 7100 meters. He now plans to climb and fly K2, the second highest mountain in the world.

07.07.2019 by Ivo Ferrari in Alpinism

Two rucksacks, one friendship. Ivo Ferrari and remembers Marco Anghileri

Ivo Ferrari remembers Marco Anghileri, his friend and mountaineer from Lecco.

05.07.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs

58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of: Sandy Allan, Kazu Amano, Valeri Babanov, Jordi Corominas, Fred Degoulet, Ines Papert, Andrej Štremfelj.

05.07.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Messner completes solo ascent of unclimbed Geshot Peak / Toshe III in Pakistan

The South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Messner has made a solo ascent of Toshe III, a 6,200m mountain in Pakistan that had never been climbed before, known locally as Geshot Peak.

03.07.2019 by Ezio Marlier in Alpinism

Grand Flambeau, Ezio Marlier discovers two mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif

Mountaineering on Mont Blanc and a stone's throw from the Torino refuge: Aosta mountain guide Ezio Marlier introduces two new mixed climb on Grand Flambeau, Koala Pirla and La Vie in Rosa.

27.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles

Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.

25.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2019, film premieres and top speakers at the Alpine Village

Film premieres and top speakers feature highly in the Alpine Village program of the Arcteryx Alpine Academy 2019, the unique event from 4 - 7 July for climbers of all abilities wishing to learn more about climbing and alpinism directly at Chamonix Mont Blanc.

23.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska

Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in Alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest known time set in 2014 by Kilian Jornet Burgarda.

Ice & Palms, Jochen Mesle and Max Kroneck cycle ski across the Alps

The award-winning film Ice & Palms that documents the extraordinary journey carried out by Jochen Mesle and Max Kroneck across the Alps by bike and of skis from Germany to Nice in France

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