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22.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Grossglockner: new route climbed by Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger

Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger have made the first ascent of The Power of Love, a new climb up the SE Face of Großglockner, the highest mountain in Austria.

17.10.2018 by Ezio Marlier in Alpinism

Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports

Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide Armando Chanoine, first reached the accident site.

16.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Ben Dare makes solo first ascent of new mixed climb up Mt Percy Smith, New Zealand

On 7 October 2018 Ben Dare made a solo first ascent of ‘The Promise’, a new mixed climb up the 700m high SW Face of Mt Percy Smith, New Zealand.

12.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Events

Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos

Complete report and photographs of the Piolets d’Or 2018, the prestigious annual mountaineering award celebrated from 20 - 23 September at Ladek Zdrój in Poland.

07.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Virgin Himalayan 6000er climbed by Austrian dream team

Alpinists Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher from Austria have made a three-day alpine style ascent of a previously unclimbed 6050m peak in the Indian Himalaya.

06.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Lhotse first ski descent carried out by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison

The Americans Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison have carried out the first integral ski descent of Lhotse (8516m) in the Himalaya, skiing directly off the summit down to Camp 2 at 6400 meters.

04.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem

In the Mont Blanc massif the Spanish mountaineers Roger Cararach Soler, Marc Toralles and Bru Busom repeated the Japanese Couloir, the so-called 'Couloir central' that splits the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. The three repeated the climb in 24 hours, without bivouacs, and at the start of the season.

28.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes

Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas have climbed Mt. Yerupajá, turning back below the summit cornice. This is the last of their tour of the 16 highest mountains in the South American Andes.

27.09.2018 by Luca Vallata in Alpinism

Chareze Ri North in India's Rangtik valley climbed by Italians

At the end of August 2018 Davide Limongi, Federico Martinelli, Enrico Mosetti, Federico Secchi and Luca Vallata climbed the East Ridge of Chareze Ri North in the Rangtik valley in the Zanskar area of India. Climbed alpine style with one bivouac, Jullay Temù (1000m, 70° ice, V + rock) reaches the north summit at5950m. Due to the onset of darkness and subsequent bad weather the main summit was not reached. Luca Vallata reports

26.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif

Last night significant rockfall took place on the Trident du Tacul, close to the Grand Capucin (Mont Blanc massif).

24.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co

Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.

20.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Matterhorn Ridges x 4: François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climb 4 crests in 16 hours

Interview with Italy’s François Cazzanelli who on 12 September 2018 teamed up with Switzerland’s Andreas Steindl to climb all four ridges of the Matterhorn in just 16 hours and 4 minutes.

20.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Books-press

La Sportiva 90th anniversary book wins best corporate monographs 2018

The book 'La Sportiva 90th, a history of alpinism, passion, innovation' has won the 2018 OMI award for the best corporate monograph went to La Sportiva for its innovative approach and storytelling capacity.

18.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Huascarán Norte in Peru climbed by Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini

The Italian alpine guides Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas Franchini have climbed Huascarán Norte, the highest mountain in Peru, as part of their Los Picos 6500 project which aims to climb the 16 highest peaks of the South American Andes.

18.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Devil's Paw in Alaska: Brette Harrington and Gabe Hayden climb West Face

Mountain climbing in Alaska: Brette Harrington and Gabe Hayden have made the first ascent of Shaa Téix’i (1300m, 5.11a) up the West Face of the Devils Paw, Juneau Ice Cap.

14.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Liv Sansoz completes 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps

French climber and alpinist Liv Sansoz has completed all 82 alpine four-thousanders.

12.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mont Blanc: fire ravages Grands Montets cable car

The Grands Montets cable car middle station caught fire yesterday afternoon. While no one was injured, the fire has caused significant damages.

11.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

New Zealand: another mixed climb up Aoraki / Mount Cook

Mountaineers Caleb Jennings and Kim Ladiges have made the first ascent of Pilgrim, a new mixed climb up the south face of Aoraki / Mt Cook (3,764 m) in New Zealand.

07.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tom Belz summits Kilimanjaro on route towards personal growth

On 9 August 2018 the disabled mountaineer Tom Belz reached the summit of Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa, without a leg and on crutches. An adventure to understand his personal limits but above all to encourage others to push beyone their personal boundaries.

06.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Latok I. The Aleš Česen interview

Interview with Slovenian alpinist Aleš Česen after the ascent, carried out with Luka Stražar and Tom Livingstone, of Latok I via the north and south face. The three were only the second team to reach the summit of the 7,145m high mountain in Pakistan’s Karakorum after the 1979 first ascent.

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