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01.12.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach follow their instincts on Pizzo Badile

Alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach have climbed Crossway of Friendship on the northeast face of Pizzo Badile. This variation is dedicated to the late Matteo Bernasconi.

26.11.2020 by Benjamin Lieber in Alpinism

Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range

Benjamin Lieber reports about two big new climbs ascended in Alaska’s Hayes Range: DeWilde Style (800m AI4+) up the SE Face of Peak 9,250ft with Alex Hansen and Longing For Light (700m AI5) on the NE Shoulder of Mount Moffit climbed above the Trident Glacier with Hansen and Austin Schmitz.

24.11.2020 by Martin Feistl in Alpinism

24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand

In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original line up the face, and shares a short section with the winter version of Schiefer Riss, climbed in 2013 by Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Peter Ortner.

18.11.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder

On 11 November 2020 Martin Feistl and David Bruder made the first repeat and first free ascent of Sagzahnverschneidung, the difficult mixed route in the Valsertal in Austria established in 2018 by David Lama and Peter Mühlberger.

17.11.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Dani Arnold Expedition Baikal film première tonight at 20

Tonight at 20:00 CET the première of the film Expedition Baikal that documents the expedition carried out by Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold to Lake Baikal in the heart of Siberia.

16.11.2020 by Davide Prandini in Alpinism

New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini

On 07/11/2020, just before South Tyrol declared itself in lockdown due to Covid, Simon Gietl and Davide Prandini made the first ascent of Aquädukt (IV, M5 650m), a new mixed climb up the north face of Wasserkopf (3135m) in the Rieserferner group of the Tauern Alps. At 3/4 height the new route joins the route established in 1977 by Werner Beikircher and Hans Kammerlander. Prandini reports.

13.11.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Aerial view of Cerro Torre in Patagonia

The spectacular footage of Cerro Torre in Patagonia filmed by American climbers Priti and Jeff Wright.

12.11.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Marmolada: exploring the first refuge in the Dolomites with Bruno Pederiva

The oldest refuge in the Dolomites, located on the east face of Punta Penia on Marmolada, featuring mountain guide Bruno Pederiva.

K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright

American alpinists Priti and Jeff Wright made the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in the Karakorum in Pakistan on 9 October 2020, a day after making the third ascent of K6 West (7140m). The Wright’s report about their impressive alpine style ascent that required 8 nights and nine days on the mountain

28.10.2020 by Symon Welfringer in Alpinism

Sani Pakkush South Face first ascent by Symon Welfringer, Pierrick Fine

Climbing in alpine style, from 16 - 20 October 2020 French alpinists Symon Welfringer and Pierrick Fine made the first ascent of the virgin South Face of Sani Pakush, a 6951m peak in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Welfringer reports about their important ascent which may well be only the second successful summit, after the first ascent carried out in 1991
 by a German climbing expedition.

24.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mount Tetnuldi, Georgia: Temur Kurdiani solos new route up West Face

Temur Kurdiani has made the solo first ascent of a new route up the West Face of Tetnuldi in the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range in Georgia.

23.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mt. Forbes, Canada: virgin East Face climbed by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts

Alpinists Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed and impressive East Face of Mount Forbes (3612 m) in the Canadian Rockies.

17.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Environment

Graham Zimmerman, an Imperfect Advocate

American alpinist Graham Zimmerman, winner of the Piolets d’Or 2020, sees see firsthand the effects of human-driven climate change on the world and decides that he must take action. This forces him to confront his personal carbon footprint to become an Imperfect Advocate. 

09.10.2020 by Simon Richardson in Alpinism

Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif

Simon Richardson reports about two new routes climbed on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in the Mont Blanc massif with Michael Rinn, the ephemeral mixed route Dinosaur Gully and the traditional multi-pitch rock climb Autumn Vibes.

08.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja encounter streamed today at 12

On Thursday 8 October 2020 at 12:00 the encounter between Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja, two of the most famous mountaineers in the world, will be streamed on gazzetta.it and ilfestivaldellosport.it

07.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle

The film Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle, dedicated to the Canadian ice climbing guru who died in 2009.

07.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn

Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Running in the Shadows (VI AI5 M6 2000m), a big new mixed route up the famous Emperor Face of Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies.

05.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tom Hornbein, Everest West Ridge pioneer, in American Alpine Club Legacy Series

A video tribute to Tom Hornbein, the formidable American mountaineer famous above all for his first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest in 1963 with Willi Unsoeld, by the American Alpine Club Legacy Series.

05.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja meeting for Sports Festival in Italy

On Thursday 8 October the video will be aired documenting the encounter between Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja, two of the most famous mountaineers in the world, in the run-up to the Gazzetta dello Sport Festival which take place in Milan, Italy, from Friday 9 to Sunday 11 October.

Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili

In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.




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