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27.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles

Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.

25.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2019, film premieres and top speakers at the Alpine Village

Film premieres and top speakers feature highly in the Alpine Village program of the Arcteryx Alpine Academy 2019, the unique event from 4 - 7 July for climbers of all abilities wishing to learn more about climbing and alpinism directly at Chamonix Mont Blanc.

23.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska

Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in Alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest known time set in 2014 by Kilian Jornet Burgarda.

Ice & Palms, Jochen Mesle and Max Kroneck cycle ski across the Alps

The award-winning film Ice & Palms that documents the extraordinary journey carried out by Jochen Mesle and Max Kroneck across the Alps by bike and of skis from Germany to Nice in France

20.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Plane lands below summit of Mont Blanc

On Tuesday morning a plane containing two Swissmen landed circa 400 meters below the summit of Mont Blanc, before being intercepted by police.

20.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

King Cobra on Mount Barrill, big wall variation to Cobra Pillar in Alaska

Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Alastair McDowell and John Price have made the first ascent of King Cobra (550m, 5.11), a 350m variation to the famous Cobra Pillar on the East Face of Mount Barrill (2332m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.

20.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China

Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°

19.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Gran Paradiso new summit ascent and descent route. Interview with Alex Chabod

Interview with Alex Chabod, vice president of the Gran Paradiso Mountain Guides, after the decision to recommend an ascent route and a different descent route on Gran Paradiso in order to avoid queues forming on the final meters to the summit.

17.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall

A group of Italian mountaineers comprised of Matteo della Bordella, Maurizio Giordani, Massimo Faletti and David Hall are about to embark on a one-month expedition to explore unchartered mountains in Pakistan.

14.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award

In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka, Jeff Lowe and Andrej Štremfelj.

11.06.2019 by Márek Holeček in Alpinism

Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal

Czech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb has been called UFO Line and is described as 'the hardest climb we have done together in the mountains.'

07.06.2019 by Simon Richardson in Alpinism

Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson

Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East Alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.

05.06.2019 by Denis Trento in Alpinism

Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta

Anomalous spring conditions across the Alps were exploited to the max by Denis Trento who managed to ski almost every day up in the Valle d’Aosta mountains. While “seeking the best conditions rather than famous descents”, Trento’s mountaineering always starts directly from the valley floor, is fast & light and at times resorts to using a bike to reduce the approach times.

04.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China

Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini has successfully made a solo ascent of the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Lamo She, a 6070m peak in China.

03.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl

Mountaineering in East Tyrol: Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer and Hans Zlöbl have made the first ascent of Kitchen Window, a 'severe mixed climb' up the North Face of Bischofsmütze in Austria.

01.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard

Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and Roger Bovard also ascended the West Rib.

Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti

Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.

27.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Interviews

David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen

Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere 200 vertical meters below the summit.

24.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

The Principles of Alpine Climbing / Mountain safety with Steve House

American alpinist Steve House has created a free video series entitled Alpine Principles to teach the climbing community how to make better decisions in the mountains.

24.05.2019 by Ezio Marlier in Alpinism

Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif

Ezio Marlier reports about Mtbness, a new mixed climb up Aiguilles Marbrées (3535 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, first ascended with Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey and David Horwood.

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