1860 News found

Edurne Pasaban with Kanchenjunga and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner with Lhotse have reached the summit of 12 8000m peaks. Nives Meroi and Romano Benet on the other hand have had to abandon their Kanchenjunga summit bid and have therefore climbed 11. The thoughts of Manuel Lugli about this female "race" to complete...

In January the Slovenian climbers Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic made a rare ascent of Cia del Tehuelche up the North Face of Fitz Roy, Patagonia.

The XVII Mezzalama Trophy took place on Monte Rosa on 02/05/2009. The legendary ski mountaineering competition was won by Manfred Reichegger, Matteo Eydallin and Denis Trento in a record breaking 4:01'22. The women's event was won by Francesca Martinelli, Roberta Pedranzini, Laetitia Roux in 4:43'31".

The sixth Melloblocco 2009, the world's most important bouldering meeting, broke all records from 07 - 10 May 2009. At least 2500-3000 climbers gathered in Val Masino and Val di Mello and more than 6000 people visited the valley for this happening which embodies the joy of bouldering.

A team of Mountain Guides and Sherpa have placed some bolts on Everest to make the South Face route safer.

A fortnight ago Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic on-sighted Italy's first 8c, Nagay at Covolo. The 16-year-old then doubled his takings with Una Vida Nomada the same day.

In February a small American team of climbers carried out a first ascent of Voces en la Noche, (V 5.11 A0) on Pirita Right in the remote Argentian Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, while a Canadian team produced Todos los Caballos Lindos (5.11-) on Pirita Central.

Last Saturday the Piolets d'Or 2009 were assigned in Chamonix and a total of three awards were given in this 17th edition: Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi from Japan for their ascent of Kamet (India); Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano from Japan for their new route on Kalanka...

At Easter Florian and Martin Riegler carried out two noteworthy ascents in the Dolomites. On 7 April the South Tyrolean brothers made the first on-sight of "Karies" on Sassolungo while on 11 April they repeated Zauberlehrling on Cima Scotoni, all free and in a single day

On 25 April Maurizio Manolo Zanolla repeated Thin Ice at Terlago.

Adam Ondra has returned to Italy and carried out the first ascent of "Vento nei Capelli" 8c+/9a at Cornalba and "La grande linea dei sogni"8c+/9a at Erto.

After failing to even reach Kangchenjunga and being forced therefore to change plans, Nives Meroi and Romano Benet are currently attempting the South Face of Annapurna in orderto climb their 12th 8000m peak. Prevailing conditions on the mountain continue to be difficult and our man in the field Manuel Lugli...

On 23 March Fabrizio Pina, Alessandro Lafranconi and Alberto Marazzi skied the route "Cittadini della galassia" (V/4) on the NW Face of Monte Legnone. In doing so they made the first ski descent of this long gully high above Collico, Italy.

The Czech Mountaineering Union has passed a bill, still to be accepted by the Ministry of Environment, approving the use of chalk on Czech sandstone.

On 13 and 14 March Luca Vuerich and Massimo Laurencig carried out the first winter ascent of the difficult Fessura Lomasti (400m, VI, pass. di VIII-) on the pre-summit of Cima Grande della Scala (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps, Italy).

This too is what rock climbing and the Melloblocco is all about: a normal story about a happy day climbing with Patxi Usobiaga and Curt Marazzi.