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Valle del Orco, Greenspit repeats and new route flurry
31/08/2009 - Climbing
Valle del Orco, Greenspit repeats and new route flurry
At the start of August a strong British team travelled to Italy's Valle del Orco where they managed to carry out the third ascent of Greenspit and forge five new routes high above the valley floor.
The biggest cathedral in the world: Florian Riegler and Via della Cattedrale on the Marmolada, Dolomites
06/08/2009 - Climbing
The biggest cathedral in the world: Florian Riegler and Via della Cattedrale on the Marmolada, Dolomites
Last June Florian Riegler, climbing with Rebecca Finch, climbed "Via della cattedrale" (max 8a+, 21 pitches) on the South Face of the Marmolada in 12 hours. This is probably the first repeat after the first free ascent at the hands of Pietro dal Prà five years ago. But above all,...
Oh Eun-Sun summits Gasherbrum I, her 13th 8000er
04/08/2009 - Alpinism
Oh Eun-Sun summits Gasherbrum I, her 13th 8000er
Yesterday the South Korean mountaineer Oh Eun-Sun summited Gasherbrum I (8068m), her 13th 8000m peak.
Greenland climbing expedition success for Ragni di Lecco
29/07/2009 - Alpinism
Greenland climbing expedition success for Ragni di Lecco
Simone Pedeferri, Matteo Della Bordella, Lorenzo "Pala" Lanfranchi and Richard Felderer have just returned from a successful expedition to the relatively unexplored eastern Greenland where there carried out 5 first ascents. Simone Pedeferri talks about the expedition.
Batman, a Wenden dream come true for Spreafico and Carnati
22/07/2009 - Climbing
Batman, a Wenden dream come true for Spreafico and Carnati
Paolo Spreafico, climbing with Adriano Carnati, made a rare on-sight repeat of Batman in Wenden (Switzerland).
For Cristina Castagna
20/07/2009 - Alpinism
For Cristina Castagna
On 18 July 2009 the 31 year old Italian mountaineer Cristina Castagna died as a result of a fall into a crevasse at 7000m during her descent from Broad Peak (Karakorum, Pakistan). Confirmation came from her climbing partner Giampaolo Casarotto.
Climbing World Championships, Qinghai, China
07/07/2009 - Competitions
Climbing World Championships, Qinghai, China
The IFSC Climbing World Championships drew to a close on 05/07/2009 in Qinghai with Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (ESP) and Johanna Ernst (AUT) winning the Lead. The Russians Alexey Rubtsov and Yulia Abramchuk won the Bouldering event, while Speed was won by the Chinese Qixin Zhong and Cuilian He.
Manolo 8b+ on-sight at Kalymnos
25/06/2009 - Climbing
Manolo 8b+ on-sight at Kalymnos
On 19/06/2009 Maurizio Zanolla, alias Manolo, on-sighted Rock and Blues at the Olympic Wall on Kalymnos, Greece.
New rock climbs in Namibia
17/06/2009 - Climbing
New rock climbs in Namibia
On a recent trip to Namibia the Americans Majka Burhardt, Peter Doucette and Kate Rutherford carried out the first ascent of two new routes on Brandberg.
Picos de Europa, Naranjo de Bulnes, rock climbing in Spain's secretive mountain paradise
15/06/2009 - Climbing
Picos de Europa, Naranjo de Bulnes, rock climbing in Spain's secretive mountain paradise
The mysterious place that everyone seems to have heard about, but where not many have dared venture! Under-rated and often overlooked, the Picos de Europa is Northern Spain's hidden secret! Consisting of a huge area of wild limestone peaks, it offers rock climbers and mountaineers a wealth of routes in...
In memory of Giuliano De Marchi
09/06/2009 - Alpinism
In memory of Giuliano De Marchi
On 5 June Giuliano De Marchi, a doctor and strong mountaineer from Belluno, died on Monte Antelao, Dolomites. Michel Barbiero, his companion in Alaska 2007, remembers him.
Fitz Roy Tehuelche route rare repeat by Slovenians Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic
14/05/2009 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Tehuelche route rare repeat by Slovenians Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic
In January the Slovenian climbers Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic made a rare ascent of Cia del Tehuelche up the North Face of Fitz Roy, Patagonia.
Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners
02/05/2009 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners
Last Saturday the Piolets d'Or 2009 were assigned in Chamonix and a total of three awards were given in this 17th edition: Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi from Japan for their ascent of Kamet (India); Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano from Japan for their new route on Kalanka...
Ricardo Scarian frees Adidas 8b+ at Ranzo and repeats Thin Ice 8c at Terlago
27/04/2009 - Climbing
Ricardo Scarian frees Adidas 8b+ at Ranzo and repeats Thin Ice 8c at Terlago
On 23 April Ricardo Scarian carried out the first ascent of Adidas 8b+ at Ranzo and the first repeat of Thin Ice 8c at Terlago, Italy
Piotr Morawski dies on Dhaulagiri
10/04/2009 - Alpinism
Piotr Morawski dies on Dhaulagiri
Polish mountaineer Piotr Morawski died on Dhaulagiri on 8 April after falling 20m into a crevasse. Piotr Drozdz, a friend and editor of the Polish Gory magazine, has sent us this text in memory of Morawski.
Flashback Melloblocco 2008, a day climbing Luna Nascente
27/03/2009 - Climbing
Flashback Melloblocco 2008, a day climbing Luna Nascente
This too is what rock climbing and the Melloblocco is all about: a normal story about a happy day climbing with Patxi Usobiaga and Curt Marazzi.

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