2334 News found

10/10/2014 - Alpinism
Has exploratory alpinism failed? Starting from a recent statement by Reinhold Messner, Manuel Lugli discusses the presumed end of “traditional” and exploratory alpinism.

06/10/2014 - Alpinism
Giù la testa, new Lagorai rock climb, Dolomites The report by Peter Moser about Giù la testa (350m VIII / VIII+), a difficult new trad rock climb first ascended in 2014 in the Lagorai group, Dolomites, together with Thomas Ballerin, Iwan Canins and Roberto Ronzani.

02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and...

01/10/2014 - Alpinism
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac...

01/10/2014 - Alpinism
Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the Greenland 2014 expedition, carried out together with Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva. This final update includes the exploration at Gibbs Fjord, Baffin Island

30/09/2014 - Alpinism
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route The short report by South Tyrolean alpinist Philipp Angelo who on 15 September2014 carried out what is likely to be the second solo ascent of the Polish route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).

30/09/2014 - Alpinism
New route by Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz up Sas Ciampac in the Dolomites In October 2013 the two mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of Rien ne va plus (435m, 7b+ max, 7a obligatory), a new climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac, Puez group, Dolomites.

29/09/2014 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the South Face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.

26/09/2014 - Climbing
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza On 23/09/2014 Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla made the first free ascent of Pinne gialle, a difficult new 4-pitch climb up the side of the large central corner at Tognazza (Passo Rolle, Dolomites, Italy).

26/09/2014 - Alpinism
Avalanche on Shisha Pangma claims lives of Andrea Zambaldi and Sebastian Haag On 24/09/2014 an avalanche on Shisha Pangma (8027m), Tibet, claimed the lives of Italian alpinist Andrea Zambaldi and German alpinist Sebastian Haag. Martin Maier, the third alpinist caught by the avalanche that triggered shortly below the summit, managed to survive.

25/09/2014 - Events
Zanzara e Labbradoro, the Roberto Bassi film première at Arco On Saturday 27 September 2014, at 20:30 the Casino in Arco (Tn) will host the film première Zanzara e Labbradoro - Storie, mani e silenzi di Roberto Bassi (Stories, hands and silence by Roberto Bassi), written and directed by Lia...

23/09/2014 - Alpinism
Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition The Uncharted expedition comprised of Camilo Rada, Natalia Martinez, Ines Dusaillant, Viviana Callahan and Evan Miles has made the first ascent of Volcan Aguilera (2480m) on the South Patagonian Icefield. Furthermore, during the return across the Hielos Continentales the team...

22/09/2014 - Alpinism
Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod On the North Face of Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Dave MacLeod from Scotland has climbed Project Fear, a difficult new 130m variation that leads to the crux pitch of Pan Aroma and breaches difficulties up to 8c.

19/09/2014 - Alpinism
International Mountain summit: a meeting and a discussion about alpinism, doping, culture and the environment At the International Mountain summit 2014, that will take place in Brixen, Italy, from 16 - 21 October there are two important days organised by the Master in Mountain Medicine and his director Dott. Luigi Festi. The first, on 17...

17/09/2014 - Alpinism
Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia This summer Australian climbers Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner, acting on a photo taken by a Russian friend, travelled to the remote Bilibino area in eastern Russia where they made the first ascent of 6 new routes on what they...

15/09/2014 - Alpinism
Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger This summer Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger made the first ascent of the Austrian-Swiss-Route up the SW Face of Mount Kirken, NE Greenland.
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