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Melloblocco 2011 – a new bouldering and Val Masino record
08/05/2011 - Events
Melloblocco 2011 – a new bouldering and Val Masino record
Great success and absolute record number of participants in Val Masino - Val di Mello (Italy) during the eighth Melloblocco, the biggest climbing and bouldering meeting in the world. 2600 registered climbers from 22 different countries took part in the event, while at least 10000 people gathered in the...
Mezzalama Trophy 2011. The race, winners and a renewed competition
02/05/2011 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2011. The race, winners and a renewed competition
On 1 May 2011 the XVIII Mezzalama Trophy was won by the international team comprised of Spaniard Jornet Burgada and the Frenchmen Bon Mardion and Blanc. The women's event was won by Pellissier, Pedranzini, Martinelli. The report and excitement of the great ski mountaineering marathon on Monte Rosa, by Lorenzo...
Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
29/04/2011 - Alpinism
Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
On Thursday 28 April Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Erhard Loretan died in a climbing accident while ascending Grünhorn in the Bernse Alps. Loretan was one of the greatest alpinists of the modern era, the third person to have climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks and the second to do so...
Melloblocco #1, Copper skies above Monolith by Popi Miotti
22/04/2011 - Climbing
Melloblocco #1, Copper skies above Monolith by Popi Miotti
Giuseppe 'Popi' Miotti, the visions of a climber in Val Masino – Val di Mello and the distant vertical galaxies of pure granite.
Adam Ondra, Chilam Balam video
19/04/2011 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Chilam Balam video
Video of Adam Ondra working Chilam Balam at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain.
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
19/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
Two Piolets d'Or were awarded on 15 April in Chamonix, France, during the IXX Piolet d'Or 2011: to the Greenland Big Walls by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Bob Shepton and to the ascent up Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama from...
Adam Ondra, the Chilam Balam interview
14/04/2011 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, the Chilam Balam interview
Interview with Adam Ondra after his repeat of Chilam Balam 9b, the route claimed by Bernabé Fernandez in 2003 at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain.
Adam Ondra, bone marrow donor
11/04/2011 - Events
Adam Ondra, bone marrow donor
Adam Ondra has become a bone marrow donor. Pietro Dal Pra and Giovanni Spitale of Climb for Life explain this important gesture for donors and the climbing community.
Kevin Jorgeson & Transporter Room, repeat two decades on
11/04/2011 - Environment
Kevin Jorgeson & Transporter Room, repeat two decades on
American climber Kevin Jorgeson has carried out the probable second ascent of Transporter Room, the highball boulder problem on the Grandpa Peabody at the Buttermilks, USA, established by Dale Bard in the late '80's.
Klemen Becan creates Croatia's hardest climb
29/03/2011 - Climbing
Klemen Becan creates Croatia's hardest climb
Slovenian climber Klemen Becan has freed the hardest route in Croatia, an unnamed 9a at Medveja.
American Alpine Club climbing grants, 2011 deadlines approaching
22/03/2011 - Alpinism
American Alpine Club climbing grants, 2011 deadlines approaching
Every year the American Alpine Club awards more $50,000 every year in the form of climbing, conservation, and research grants to budding adventurers and many 2011 deadlines are fast approaching. Climbers must not necessarily be of USA origin to be receive the grants, but they must be members of the...
From the Pierra Menta to the Grande Course... the changing face of ski mountaineering competitions
19/03/2011 - Competitions
From the Pierra Menta to the Grande Course... the changing face of ski mountaineering competitions
The Grande Course has just begun, the first international ski mountaineering cup comparable to a tennis Grand Slam. Action kicked off on 17 March on the slopes of France's Arêches-Beaufort, which hosted the Grenoble winter Olympics, with the classic French ski mountaineering competition Pierra Menta which dates back to 1985.
Piantobaldo, new route on Monte Presolana in memory of Camos and Piantoni
16/03/2011 - Alpinism
Piantobaldo, new route on Monte Presolana in memory of Camos and Piantoni
On 11/03/2011 Yuri Parimbelli, Tito Arosio and Ennio Spiranelli carried out the first ascent of Piantobaldo (600m, WI 4 M7 A1) up the NW Face of the Western Presolana and dedicated their route to the late Bruno "Camos" Tassi and Roby Piantoni.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Park Hee Yong and Anna Gallyamova reign supreme
14/03/2011 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Park Hee Yong and Anna Gallyamova reign supreme
The fourth and final stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2011 drew to a close in Kirov, Russia on 8 March and was won by the Russians Maxim Tomilov and Anna Gallyamova. The Russians Maria Tolokonina and Pavel Gulayev were crowned Speed World Champions, while the winners of the...
Cugi's Corner, new route up the NW Face of Cimon di Palantina
11/03/2011 - Alpinism
Cugi's Corner, new route up the NW Face of Cimon di Palantina
On 5 March 2011 the Italians Barry Bona and Simone Favero established Cugi's Corner, a new route up the NW Face of Cimon di Palantina (Col Nudo-Cavallo moutain chain, Alpago, Dolomites).
Climb for life - give bone marrow
08/03/2011 - Events
Climb for life - give bone marrow
CLIMB FOR LIFE-GIVE BONE MARROW is aimed at all climbers worldwide who wish to do something good and donate bone marrow. Italian climber Pietro Dal Prà presents the initiative.

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