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Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
07/01/2010 - Alpinism
Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
On 01 January 2010 Fabio Giacomelli, the 51 year old mountaineer from Trentino, Italy, died in an avalanche at the base of the East Face of Cerro Torre. After a three day search climbing partner Elio Orlandi managed to locate the lifeless body.
Ren Zhong Feng, first ascent in China
10/12/2009 - Alpinism
Ren Zhong Feng, first ascent in China
On 28/11/2009 the Danish climbers Kristoffer Szilas and Martin Ploug reached the summit of the hiterhto unclimbed Ren Zhong Feng (5800m) in the Sichuan range in China via their route Lost to Ice (TD: M4, WI4, 1300m). During that period four Hungarian climbers went missing on the same mountain.
Jasemba SSE Face success for Simon & Samuel Anthamatten and Michi Lerjen
24/11/2009 - Alpinism
Jasemba SSE Face success for Simon & Samuel Anthamatten and Michi Lerjen
Interview with Samuel Anthamatten after the first ascent of the South-South-East Face of Jasemba, Nepal via their Hook or Crook (VI, 1550m, 90°, M5.
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
20/11/2009 - Alpinism
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
Lino Lacedelli, 84, passed away in Cortina, Italy this morning. In 1954 the member of the famous Scoiattoli mountaineering club became the first person to reach the summit of K2, together with Achille Compagnoni.
Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
14/11/2009 - Alpinism
Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
This morning at 05.25 European time the dead body of Slovenian alpinist Tomasz Humar was recovered from 5600m on the South Face of Langtang Lirung (7230m, Nepal) by a helicopter with a rescue team comprised of Swissmen Robert Andenmatten and Simon Anthmatten (Air Zermatt) and the Italians Oskar Piazza and...
Parc National des Calanques - climbing at risk in the future French park?
09/11/2009 - Environment
Parc National des Calanques - climbing at risk in the future French park?
Climbing and other low-impact sports such as canoing and hiking may be at risk at the planned Calanques National Park in France. A group called "Association des Calanques et des Hommes" is asking for climbers to sign their petition online in order to participate in roundtable discussions for the management...
Greenland climbing – new routes by Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski
31/08/2009 - Climbing
Greenland climbing – new routes by Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski
In August Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski from Poland climbed a virgin peak and established two big new routes in remote area of Torsukattak fjord in southern Greenland.
Goodbye Riccardo Cassin
07/08/2009 - Alpinism
Goodbye Riccardo Cassin
Riccardo Cassin passed away last night at his home in Resinelli at the foot of his beloved Grigna mountain. Cassin was one of the world's all time absolute mountaineering legends. He had celebrated his 100th birthday on 2 January this year.
Pale di San Martino routes re-equipped
03/08/2009 - Alpinism
Pale di San Martino routes re-equipped
At the start of July the belays of three classic Dolomites climbs were re-equipped during a mountain rescue training session. The routes in question are Frisch Corradini and Franceschini-Esposito on Pala del Rifugio and Simon-Wiessner-Kess on nearby Cima del Coro in the Pale di San Martino mountain group.
Stephan Siegrist frees Magic Mushroom on the Eiger North Face
26/06/2009 - Climbing
Stephan Siegrist frees Magic Mushroom on the Eiger North Face
Swiss climber Stephan Siegrist has made the first successful redpoint ascent of "Magic Mushroom" up the North Face of the Eiger. The route had been established in 2007 by Roger Schäli and Christoph Hainz and leads up the 3219 metres high mushroom in 21 pitches and now goes free at...
Manolo 8b+ on-sight at Kalymnos
25/06/2009 - Climbing
Manolo 8b+ on-sight at Kalymnos
On 19/06/2009 Maurizio Zanolla, alias Manolo, on-sighted Rock and Blues at the Olympic Wall on Kalymnos, Greece.
Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners
02/05/2009 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners
Last Saturday the Piolets d'Or 2009 were assigned in Chamonix and a total of three awards were given in this 17th edition: Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi from Japan for their ascent of Kamet (India); Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano from Japan for their new route on Kalanka...
57th TrentoFilmfestival preview
21/04/2009 - Events
57th TrentoFilmfestival preview
The 57th Trento FilmFestival, the oldest film festival dedicated to mountains, exploration and adventure takes place in Trento from 21 April to 3 May. The films, evenings, main players and meetings and some thoughts about the pre-Festival...
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
12/03/2009 - Events
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist...
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Ueli Steck speed solo climb on Grandes Jorasses Colton Macintyre
07/01/2009 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck speed solo climb on Grandes Jorasses Colton Macintyre
On 28 December 2008 Ueli Steck from Switzerland climbed the classic Colton - Macintyre route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses in in a mere 2 hours and 21 minutes, setting a new record for the wall and climbing all three great North Faces of the Alps in...