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Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
10/07/2024 - Climbing
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to...
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter...
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro...
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
29/06/2024 - Climbing
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
Keita Kurakami has died aged 38. The Japanese climber had made a name for himself for making the first rope-solo free ascent of The Nose in Yosemite, as well as pushing the limits of highball boulder problems established ground-up.
Jernej Kruder cruises Greenspit in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
16/06/2024 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder cruises Greenspit in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Slovenia's Jernej Kruder has repeated 'Greenspit', the difficult trad route established by Didier Berthod in Valle dell'Orco, Italy.
Andreas Hofherr repeats Into the Sun, 8c+ trad in Murgtal, Switzerland
13/06/2024 - Climbing
Andreas Hofherr repeats Into the Sun, 8c+ trad in Murgtal, Switzerland
Austrian competition climber Andreas Hofherr has repeated 'Into the Sun' the 8c+ trad in Murgtal, Switzerland, established by Bernd Zangerl in 2017 and previously repeated only by Jacopo Larcher (2021). Hofherr reports.
Electric Avenue on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
12/06/2024 - Climbing
Electric Avenue on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
In August 2022 the Bulgarian climbers Emiliyan Kolevski and Victor Varoshkin made the first ascent of 'Electric Avenue' on Grand Gendarme on the Arête des Cosmiques on Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc, France. This is only the third route up...
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
11/06/2024 - Climbing
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
Vangelis Galanis has made a rope solo first ascent of a new multipitch rock climb on Kapelo Peak in Meteora, Greece. The route is dedicated to Dietrich Hasse, the German climber who pioneered rock climbing in the conglomerate area in...
Video: The Disturbing Rise and Fall of Dean Potter
09/06/2024 - Climbing
Video: The Disturbing Rise and Fall of Dean Potter
The video portrait of Dean Potter, one of the world’s leading climbers who lost his life on 16/05/2015 aged 43 in a wingsuit accident in Yosemite Valley, USA, together with Graham Hunt.
Fay Manners, Benjamin Ramos ski new line on Grande Fourche
Fay Manners, Benjamin Ramos ski new line on Grande Fourche
On 12/05/2024 Fay Manners and Benjamin Ramos made what is believed to be a new ski descent on the south face of Grande Fourche in the Mont Blanc massif.
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs...
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all...
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by...
Shanghai Olympic Qualifier Series: Ievgeniia Kazbekova & Lee Dohyun lead Boulder & Lead provisional rankings
16/05/2024 - Competitions
Shanghai Olympic Qualifier Series: Ievgeniia Kazbekova & Lee Dohyun lead Boulder & Lead provisional rankings
The opening competition day of the Olympic Qualifier Series in Boulder & Lead in Shanghai, China, concluded with Lee Dohyun and Ievgeniia Kazbekova at the top of the Boulder & Lead provisional rankings.
Leo Gheza Bike to Climb: 150km by bike + Opera Buffa at Arco rope solo
07/05/2024 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza Bike to Climb: 150km by bike + Opera Buffa at Arco rope solo
The report by Italian mountaineer Leo Gheza who on 29 April, after having cycled 150km, climbed "Opera Buffa" rope solo on Mount Colodri at Arco. Almost 300m high and with difficulties up to 7c+, Gheza climbed the entire route...

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