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Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy
07/07/2022 - Alpinism
Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy
On Cima Bacchetta, at the foot of Italy’s Mount Concarena (Val Baione - Valle Camonica) Leonardo Gheza and Angelo Contessi have made the first ascent of Stairway to heaven. The new route is dedicated to Luca Ducoli.
James Pearson repeats Lexicon in England in smooth style
30/06/2022 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Lexicon in England in smooth style
British rock climber James Pearson has made a swift repeat of Lexicon, the E11 at Pavey Ark first ascended by Neil Gresham in 2021. After making a bold 'flash' attempt, Pearson worked the route ground-up before repeating one of Britain’s hardest trad climbs in cold, wet conditions.
Shaue Sar climbed in Karakorum by Philipp Brugger, Tomas Franchini, Lukas Waldner
13/06/2022 - Alpinism
Shaue Sar climbed in Karakorum by Philipp Brugger, Tomas Franchini, Lukas Waldner
Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini reports about the first ascent of the virgin Shaue Sar (6653m) in Karakorum, Pakistan, first ascended on 27/05/2022 with Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner. Franchini also soloed the unclimbed peaks Gypsy Sar (5810m) and Croz von Zartgurben (4650m).
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Oltreconfine, demanding multipitch on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia
03/06/2022 - Alpinism
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Oltreconfine, demanding multipitch on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia
Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra has made the first repeat of Oltreconfine on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia, established by Fabio Palma, Matteo Della Bordella and Domenico Soldarini in 2006 and 2007.
Space Invaders, Michele Caminati's new trad climb in Val di Tacca, Italy
31/05/2022 - Climbing
Space Invaders, Michele Caminati's new trad climb in Val di Tacca, Italy
Last October in Val di Tacca in Italy’s Tuscan-Emilian Apennine National Park Michele Caminati made the first ascent of Space Invaders, a new trad climb graded E7 6c. The report and video of the 37-year-old climber from Parma.
Watch The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing by Keith Ladzinski
24/05/2022 - Climbing
Watch The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing by Keith Ladzinski
The short film 'The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing' by American filmmaker Keith Ladzinski that explores the history of sport climbing in the Verdon Gorge in France through the eyes of François Guillot, Bruno Clément, Alan Carne, Matt Segal, Emily Harrington, Jonathan Siegrist.
Mathew Wright deciphers Lake District's E11 Lexicon
23/05/2022 - Interviews
Mathew Wright deciphers Lake District's E11 Lexicon
Interview with Mathew Wright after the 23-year-old British rock climber made the fourth ascent of Lexicon, the E11 at Pavey Ark in the Lake District first ascended by Neil Gresham in summer 2021.
Baffin Island Polar Moon, big first ski descent by Brette Harrington, Christina Lustenberger
Baffin Island Polar Moon, big first ski descent by Brette Harrington, Christina Lustenberger
On 4 May 2022 Brette Harrington and Christina Lustenberger made the first ski descent of Polar Moon (1200m, 45°) on Walker Arm, Baffin Island
Senja Island Ulvetanna North Ridge in Norway climbed by Simon Richardson, Mark Robson
04/05/2022 - Alpinism
Senja Island Ulvetanna North Ridge in Norway climbed by Simon Richardson, Mark Robson
Simon Richardson reports about the first ascent of the North Ridge of Ulvetanna on Senja Island in Norway, climbed on 23 April 2022 with Mark Robson. This is possibly only the second ascent of the mountain.
Hansjörg Auer Fish route solo on Marmolada 15 years ago today
29/04/2022 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer Fish route solo on Marmolada 15 years ago today
15 years ago today Hansjörg Auer set a major milestone in mountaineering history with his daring free solo of the Via Through the Fish on the south face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites
Firewall on Feuerhorn finally repeated by Guido Unterwurzacher, Simon Berger
26/04/2022 - Alpinism
Firewall on Feuerhorn finally repeated by Guido Unterwurzacher, Simon Berger
On 09/09/2021 Guido Unterwurzacher and Simon Berger made the first repeat of 'Firewall', a 300m 8b multipitch on Feuerhorn to the right of the famous 'End of Silence', established in 2003 by Alexander and Thomas Huber.
Vivian Bruchez skis Punta Baretti in Mont Blanc massif
Vivian Bruchez skis Punta Baretti in Mont Blanc massif
On 20 April 2022 French alpinist Vivian Bruchez skied a probable new line up from Punta Baretti (4013m) on the Brouillard ridge in the Mont Blanc massif.
Tom Lafaille, Aurélien Lardy ski probable new line on Aiguille d’Argentiere
Tom Lafaille, Aurélien Lardy ski probable new line on Aiguille d’Argentiere
On 17/04/2022 French alpinists Tom Lafaille and Aurélien Lardy skied what is likely to be a new line down Aiguille d’Argentiere in the Mont Blanc massif. The descent has been called Les Vires du Jardin.
Goulotte Desperados climbed on Tour Ronde, Mont Blanc, by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
04/04/2022 - Alpinism
Goulotte Desperados climbed on Tour Ronde, Mont Blanc, by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
The report by Courmayeur mountain guide Gianluca Marra who, with his colleague Niccolò Bruni, has established Goulotte Desperados, a new mixed climb on that climbs the Col Occidental de la Tour Ronde in the Mont Blanc massif.
Dave MacLeod makes third ascent of Lexicon, Neil Gresham's Lake District extreme
01/04/2022 - Climbing
Dave MacLeod makes third ascent of Lexicon, Neil Gresham's Lake District extreme
Scottish climber Dave MacLeod has made the third ascent of Lexicon, one of the most difficult trad climbs in the UK first ascended by Neil Gresham in summer 2021 at Pavey Ark in the Lake District and repeated by Steve McClure shortly afterwards.
The Bird, a pearl of the Dolomites by Giovanni Groaz, Massimo Faletti
25/03/2022 - Alpinism
The Bird, a pearl of the Dolomites by Giovanni Groaz, Massimo Faletti
Daniel Ladurner introduces 'The Bird', a rarely repeated mixed climb in Langental / Vallunga, first ascended by Massimo Faletti and Giovanni Groaz in 2003. Initially called Gola del Pettirosso, this 'pearl of the Dolomites' was renamed by the first ascensionists in honour of Jim Bridwell.