Sardinia climbing: three multipitches by Marco Pellegrini on Baunei's Punta su Mulone

Marco Pellegrini has made the first ascent of three multipitch sport climbs up the south face of Punta su Mulone above Pedra Longa in the Baunei area of Sardinia, Italy: 'Penso Positivo' with Manuel Zambanini, 'Giumar' with Giulia Orlandi and 'Tempi Interessanti' with Luca Vallata.
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Making the first ascent of Giumar, Punta su Mulone, Baunei, Sardinia (Giulia Orlandi, Marco Pellegrini 2021)
Marco Pellegrini

Above the by now famous Pedra Longa, in the municipality of Baunei, I established three new multipitches between 2020 and 2022, to be precise on the south face of Punta su Mulone, which hadn' been climbed before.

The wall offers about 150 meters of excellent vertical and slightly overhanging limestone, and given its exposure it's ideal for climbing in winter or on cool days in late autumn or early spring, when the mistral wind blows strong.


The routes in order of their first ascents:
Penso Positivo: established wih Manuel Zambanini in October 2020 7b (6c+ obligatory)
Giumar: established with Giulia Orlandi in October 2021 7a+ (6c obligatory)
Tempi Interessanti: established with Luca Vallata in April 2022 7b+ (7a obligatory).

The routes were all bolted ground-up with 316L stainless steel bolts and the runouts are fairly obligatory. For those wishing to repeat the lines, please note that you really need to master the grades in order to be able to enjoy the climbs. Take two 50m half ropes and 10 quickdraws. All the routes were subsequently freed by the first ascentionists.

Access:
From the parking lot at the Campo Dei Miracoli crag, continue down the dirt road to a small gate. Take a path up to the Gocce di Natale crag and from here scramble up the wide ledge that overlooks the crags to reach the base of the wall, following a narrow track that is not always obvious. (40 minutes).

Descent:
The belays are equipped for abseils, but it is possible to descend on foot after reaching the summit, from where you can enjoy a wonderful panorama across the Gulf of Arbatax and Punta Giràdili. From here, follow the ridge westwards and once you reach a hollow, descend southwards along some ledges following a series of cairns until you return to the base of the wall.




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